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Italy : Venice - November 2007

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The ‘City of Bridges’ is at its most magical in autumn, as grey skies, low clouds and dim lights add to its melancholic charm. It’s the perfect time to visit if you want to explore the real Venice, unhampered by crowds of tourists. Massimo Benvegnù points you in the right direction

Getting around

Marco Polo International Airport.

Taxi: A road taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about €30. A water taxi will cost approximately €90.
Tourist information: The most helpful tourist office is the Venice Pavilion on the St Mark’s waterfront (, www.turismovenezia.it).
Ferry: Alilaguna ferries go from the airport to Piazza San Marco for €12 (or €25 for the fast, direct service on the Alilaguna Oro). Alternatively, buses cost €3 and stop at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. From here, hop on a vaporetto (water bus) to your hotel. One ticket costs €6. The 24-hour pass costs €15.

Giudecca

Giudecca has had a bit of a renaissance in recent times and is full of surprises.

Sleep soundly – Housed in a former mill, the Molino Stucky Hilton (810 Giudecca, , hilton.com, rooms from €199) is now a sumptuously appointed hotel.

Culture vultures – The 16th-century Chiesa delle Zitelle (32 Fondamenta delle Zitelle) has been attributed to the famed architect Palladio.

Must eat – The quintessential Venetian eatery, Osteria ae botti (609 Giudecca San Eufemia, ) offers traditional fare. The crowd is mostly made up of locals, but that’s part of its charm.

Must drink – Have a cocktail at the Skyline Bar (Molino Stucky Hilton, 810 Giudecca) and enjoy fantastic views of the sun setting over Venice.

Dorsoduro/Zattere

Enjoy long walks by the lagoon on the Zattere, a favourite hang-out for students and locals.

Sleep soundly – A stay at the Ca Maria Adele (111 Dorsoduro, , camariaadele.it, rooms from €280) is quite an experience – all the suites and rooms are themed.

Must eat – Linea d’ombra (Fondamenta delle Zattere, ) serves exquisite food and is in a great location.

Must drink – The city’s dedicated drinkers flock to the Campo Santa Margherita where Bar Rosso offers a great selection of tramezzini sandwiches and a wide choice of drinks. Round Midnight (3102 Dorsoduro) is the perfect place for a noisy round of drinks among a largely local crowd, and a little later on, you can hit the dance floor.

Dance the night away – The nightclub of choice for tourists and residents alike is Piccolo Mondo (1056 Dorsoduro). It sets about redefining the word ‘cosmopolitan’ – you can meet people from every part of the world here.

San Marco

What can you say about San Marco that hasn’t been said already? Take advantage of the low season to roam freely around one of the world’s most beautiful districts.

Sleep soundly – Daniel Craig chose the Hotel Bauer (1459 San Marco, , bauervenezia. com, rooms from €350) while shooting Casino Royale in Venice. Well, if it’s good enough for 007…

Culture vultures – Some of the most important contemporary art exhibitions are staged at the Palazzo Grassi (Campo San Samuele). Once you arrive in town, make sure you check what’s on here.

Must drink – Harry’s Bar (1323 Calle Vallaresso) was once the watering hole of the rich and famous and still caters to a chi-chi crowd. Don’t leave Venice without having tried the Bellini, a cocktail made with Prosecco and peach juice.

Shop til you drop – For the finest hand-made spectacles, head to Micromega (Cannaregio 6232). Made with artisan techniques, the sunglasses here exemplify all that’s good about Italian design.

San Polo

San Polo was the city’s commercial hub during La Serenissima (the Republic of Venice) and it remains an extremely popular area today.

Culture vultures – The church of San Pantalon (Campo San Pantalon) is renowned for its painted ceiling, which depicts The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of Saint Pantalon. Gian Antonio Fumiani worked on the painting for 24 years until it eventually claimed his life – he fell to his death from the scaffolding.

Must eat – Naranzaria (130 San Polo, ) serves up fresh sushi in art deco surroundings.

Must drink – Order a spritz (a local drink made with white wine and bitter) at Il muro (Campo Bella Vienna), which is situated right off the Rialto market.

Shop til you drop – Keep your hands warm as the temperatures drop with a classic pair of artisan-made leather gloves from Fanny (27/23 Calle dei Saoneri).



Compiled by Massimo Benvegnù

Previous issues for Venice
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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