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Italy : Bologna - December 2007

Country Code: Dial for Italy

In the past, Bologna has been known as ‘the red’, ‘the fat’, and ‘the learned’. Compared with its socialist heyday, the city’s administration is now slightly more moderate, but not much else has changed. Massimo Benvegnù finds winter the perfect time to explore a city that is steeped in tradition and has a rich culinary history

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

PIAZZA VERDI

A buzzing centre of cultural activities, Piazza Verdi is where students gather and mix with the classical music fanatics who are queuing for opera tickets. Debates generally move to nearby bars and restaurants, and continue into the early hours.

Sleep soundly – Set in a beautifully restored ancient building in the heart of Bologna, Hotel San Donato (16 Via Zamboni, tel. , hotelsandonato.it, rooms from €89) is perfect for those on a budget.

Must eat – To Steki (4 Largo Respighi, tel. ) has an excellent choice of Greek dishes and snacks, as well as a well thought-out wine list and a great pudding menu.

Shop til you drop – If you’re looking for a music sheet, photography book or theatre script, there’s no better place in town than Libreria di Cinema Teatro Musica (1/c Via Mentana), a bookstore devoted to the performing arts.

PIAZZA MAGGIORE

Bologna’s biggest tourist attractions are all here in its main square. But if you venture into the maze of side streets surrounding it, you’re likely to find several hidden gems.

Sleep soundly – Possibly the best-appointed bolt-hole in the city, Art Hotel Commercianti (11 Via de’Pignattari, , bolognarthotels.it, rooms from €165) is a permanent fixture in Italy’s best hotels lists. Come here for frescoed rooms with amazing views of the city, and every possible comfort.

Must eat – Italy is the country of gelato, and if you think ice cream is just a summery snack, you should try to resist the gluttonous temptations of La Sorbetteria Castiglione (44 Via Castiglione). The sorbets are absolute masterpieces – perfect, even in winter.

Shop til you drop – If you want to indulge your sweet tooth even further, Duca D’Amalfi (3/a Piazza dei Celestini) is considered by many to be the best patisserie in Bologna. Indulge in croissants, cannoli and sfogliatelle (pastries filled with ricotta cheese).

PIAZZA OBERDAN

Slightly less touristy than some quarters, Piazza Oberdan is a charming spot where you can shop, walk or just sit outside a café and watch Bolognese life pass by.

Sleep soundly – The former historical residence of the Azzo Guidi family in the 14th century, Hotel Corona d’Oro (12 Via Oberdan, , bolognarthotels.it, rooms from €198) has wonderfully welcoming suites and quiet rooms.

Culture vultures – A beautiful reconstruction of the history of Bologna’s ghetto, Museo Ebraico (1/5 Via Valdonica) also organises a series of exhibitions and walking tours that uncover the city’s ancient Jewish heritage.

Must eat – La Teresina (4 Via Oberdan, tel. ) is a family-run restaurant where everything is homemade, even the bread.

PIAZZA DI PORTA SAN FELICE

Bologna’s historical centre is surrounded by porte (strategically positioned archways), which provided access to the town in medieval times. Visitors should explore these less travelled areas for more unusual, eccentric findings.

Sleep soundly – With a name like I Love Shopping (21/e Via San Felice), you surely can’t go wrong. The boutique gathers some of the season’s most fashionable pieces under one roof.

Dance the night away – Millennium (77/a Via Riva di Reno) is a true multi-tasker, with themed evenings from nostalgic 80s nights to salsa evenings. Avoid disappointment by making sure you know what’s on before you go.

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