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Italy : Cagliari - December 2007

Country Code: Dial for Italy

With its intoxicating blend of medieval architecture, miles of breathtaking coastline and a richly diverse cultural life, the island capital of Cagliari is one of Europe’s most beguiling cities. And if you go in December, you’ll see the hordes of holidaymakers mercifully dissipate. Nigel Wilson uncovers the mysteries of Sardinia’s greatest hidden treasure

Getting around

Cagliari Elmas Airport

Bus: ARST blue buses run to Piazza Matteotti every 30 minutes from 8.45am to 11.40pm. Go to the bus stop in front of Arrivals. The journey takes about 15 minutes and costs €2 for a single ticket.
Taxi: Taxis are available outside the airport terminal and cost from €15-€18 to the city centre. The journey takes 10-15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 95-97 Piazza Matteotti (tel. , aast.ca.it). There are also tourist information points at Via Mameli and Elmas Airport.

CASTELLO

Imposing and utterly charming, the quarter of Castello appears not to have changed for almost 500 years. Here, exquisite palazzos rub shoulders with the tiny market stalls that lay in their shadows, and an air of intrigue lies heavy in the air.

Sleep soundly – Decadent and possessing an otherworldly air, Hotel Regina Margherita Cagliari (44 Viale Regina Margherita, tel. , www.hotelreginamargherita.com, rooms from €120) is Cagliari’s most refined hotel. Service is immaculate and the breakfasts consisting of local pastries, cheeses and cured meats are a joy.

Must eat – While most us probably associate Sardinia with robust pasta dishes, it’s worth remembering that the islanders have an age-old tradition of olive wood-burning ovens, which are used to full effect on a selection of succulent meats. At Ristorante Italia (30 Via Sardegna, tel. ) the suckling pig is particularly good.

Dance the night away – Varadero (84 Via Roma) is Castello’s only dance venue and is without a doubt Cagliari’s only Cuban-themed destination.

MARINA

One of the livelier parts of town, Marina comprises the winding streets that join the historic centre with the crystal waters of the Mediterranean. It’s a great place to shop and eat.

Sleep soundly – Situated between the old town and the marina, T Hotel (Via Dei Giudicati, , thotel.it, rooms from €150) stands in stark contrast to the city’s ancient buildings. Floor-to-ceiling windows, high-tech facilities and a fiercely contemporary image make it a draw for a cosmopolitan, discerning clientele.

Must eat – Oysters covered in a crispy coating of Parmesan, griddled crayfish and honey-roasted aubergine are some of the inventive options on offer at Severino (4th Floor, 25 Via Bembo, tel. ).

Shop til you drop – With its extensive range of locally designed and dyed fabrics, Laboratorio Tessile Corona (3 Via Sarrabus) is an interior design enthusiast’s dream. If you prefer to dress yourself rather than your home, the store’s intricately decorated scarves and ties make perfect gifts.

POETTO BEACH

Bronzed Adonises and their sun-kissed female counterparts give Poetto Beach the air of a catwalk. Sunbathing here is punctuated by high octane watersports and lazy lunches in the mouth-watering waterfront trattorias.

Must eat – As its name suggests, Insomnia (170 Viale Poetto, tel. ) comes to life as most people are extinguishing their bedside lights. Hearty pastas and succulent steaks form the backbone of the café’s menu, but the selection of local wines is perhaps the main pulling point of this Poetto institution.

Must drink – Open all year round, Twist Bar (Lungomare Poetto) not only serves up a wide selection of cocktails but is also known for its bar snacks which redefine the idea of Italian finger food.

STAMPACE

Ancient and possessing a sombre air of religiosity, Stampace is home to Cagliari’s most exquisite churches. It’s also the city’s cultural hub, although the past five years have seen a selection of fine bars lend the area a slightly more jovial edge.

Culture vultures – Sant’Eulalia (2 Vico Collegio) is one of the most mysterious archaeological sites in Sardinia. It reveals some of the old Roman town, and remains run from the imperial period through to the architectural gems of the Middle Ages.

Must eat – Ristorante Lillicu (14 Via Dei Carroz, tel. ) is a one-room, one-dish kind of place. Arrive early, be told what to order (invariably pasta followed by fish) and let the owners show you how Sardinians really eat.

Compiled by Nigel Wilson