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Portugal : Faro - December 2007

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

Perfect blue skies, bright sunshine and walks along a practically deserted marina – that’s what’s best about visiting Faro in December. The sun worshippers have packed up and gone home, leaving you to enjoy the medieval cobbled streets and ancient churches without the hustle and bustle of tourists. Fiona Keating enjoys the silence

Getting around

Faro International Airport

Bus: Eva Bus connects the airport with the city centre. Services run every 30 minutes from 7.05am to 9.15pm. The journey takes 20 minutes and a return ticket costs €4 while a single ticket costs €1,55.
Train: A single journey from the airport to Faro for up to four passengers costs around €15 and takes 15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 8-11 Rua da Misericordia (tel. , visitportugal.com).

THE OLD CITY

The old city’s narrow streets and alleys lead on to Afonso III square.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Eva (1 Avenida da Republica, tel. , rooms from €67) is close to the medieval city. An added bonus is the roof-top pool with panoramic views.

Culture vultures – Arco da Vila (Rua da Misericórdia) was built on the site of a medieval castle gate.

Must eat – Try the slow-roasted kid, cooked with bacon and garlic, or wild boar with sultanas at Mesa dos Mouros (10 Largo da Sé, tel. ).

MARINA

Admire the yachts of the rich and famous here, where millionaires come to play. If that doesn’t take your fancy, the marina is near Ria Formosa lagoon, a resting place for hundreds of different migratory birds.

Sleep soundly – The location of Hotel Faro (2 Praça D. Francisco Gomes, tel. , hotelfaro.pt, rooms from €64) near the marina makes it great for strolls after dinner. Or hop on a boat to one of the many islands located in Ria Formosa, famed for their white, sandy beaches.

Culture vultures – Ria Formosa Nature Park preserves the cultural heritage of the Phoenicians, Romans and Arabs who developed this area. Look out for the ancient village of Fuzeta as well.

Must eat – Try bacalhau (dried salt cod) at the charming República (40 Avenida da República, tel. ). It’s said there are 365 ways of cooking it – here it’s prepared with tomato, coriander, potatoes and shellfish.

Dance the night away – Most of the clubs and bars can be found on Rua do Prior. Or try Upa Upa Café & Bar (51 Rua Conselheiro Bivar). But remember, the party only starts after midnight.

RUA DE SANTO ANTONIO

Faro’s main shopping area is in the heart of town along Rua Santo António and Rua Dr. Francisco Gomes.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Santa Maria Faro (17-19 Rua de Portugal, tel. , hotelsantamariafaro.com, rooms from €71) is a cosy property that has been recently refurbished, and is located less than 20 metres from the main commercial street of Santo António.

Must eat – One of the oldest restaurants in Faro, Dois Irmãos (14 Largo Terreiro do Bispo, tel. ) has been serving superb regional dishes using original recipes since 1925. Specialities here include seafood and lobster.

Must drink – Admire the gaudy wedding-cake ceiling at Café Aliança (26 Praça D. Francisco Gomes).

Shop til you drop – Check out Carminho (29 Rua Santo António), a well-stocked outlet for handicrafts, embroidered goods, ceramic tiles, local wines and traditional clothing.

SAO PEDRO

This area was once the site of a Roman forum and an ancient mosque. Today it’s a charming area full of delightful cobbled squares and orange trees.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Dom Bernardo (20 Rua Gen. Teófilo da Trindade, tel. , hoteldombernardo. com, rooms from €63) is a few kilometres from the historical centre, and the city’s main train and bus stations. For a real treat book the junior suite, which comes complete with a jacuzzi and terrace.

Culture vultures – Faro Cathedral or Sé (Largo da Sé) was the first Christian church here, built on the foundations of a mosque. A riot of ornate wood carvings and rich colours, the strangest feature is the 18th-century organ painted with Chinese motifs.

Must eat – Taska (38 Rua do Alportel, tel. ) is a small trattoria that’s popular with locals who come for the regional specialities, such as pork cooked with clams and coriander, or eel stew and razor fish with rice.

Compiled by Fiona Keating