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Portugal : Lisbon - December 2007

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

Lisbon is especially atmospheric in December – the main streets and squares are strung with some of the best illuminations in Europe. The smell of roasting chestnuts fills the air, while the city’s baroque churches are filled with scores of candles and the sound of carols. Chris Graeme finds the capital’s Christmas spirit is infectious

Getting around

Lisbon Airport

Bus: The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm and goes to the city centre, finishing at Cais do Sodré. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought onboard.
Taxi: It’s about a 20 minute taxi ride to the city centre. The fare costs approximately €15, with an extra charge for luggage in the boot. Prices increase by 20% at night and on weekends and bank holidays.
Tourist information: The Lisboa Welcome Centre is located at Praça do Comércio, on the corner of Rua do Arsenal (tel. , www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).

PRINCIPE REAL

Packed with monumental museums by day and busy bars at night, this arterial street, which runs between Rato and Baixa Chiado, is lined with antique stores and carpet shops.

Sleep soundly – The contemporary Altis Hotel (11 Rua Castilho, tel. , altishotels.com, rooms from €160) has excellent amenities, including a gym, pool and sauna, as well as breathtaking views.

Culture vultures – The Botanical Garden (58 Rua da Escola Politécnica) boasts one of Euope’s finest collections of trees and plants from Brazil, India, Australia and Africa. Museu Nacional de História Natural in the garden is great for kids – don’t miss the exhibition Butterflies In The Time Of The Dinosaurs. » Must eat Politicians, journalists and actors have all graced Cantinho da Paz (4 Rua da Paz, tel. ), which specialises in local cuisine.

Must eat – Politicians, journalists and actors have all graced Cantinho da Paz (4 Rua da Paz, tel. ), which specialises in local cuisine.

Must drink – Head to Pavilhão Chinês (89-91 Rua Dom Pedro V) for waistcoated waiters, fabulous cocktails and the best collection of memorabilia from the Napoleonic wars and Russian Revolution on the Iberian peninsula.

SÃO BENTO

-A sense of history and authority pervades this part of town, which is home to the classical parliament building, the prime minister’s residence and a myriad of antique and bric-a-brac shops.

Culture vultures – Book a day in advance for a guided tour around Palacio da Assembléia da República (Largo das Cortes).

Must eat – With its red wallpaper, paintings and mirrored bar, there’s a distinct 1950s feel to the steak restaurant Café São Bento (212 Rua São Bento, tel. ).

Must drink – As Vicentinas (700 Rua São Bento) is a quaint English tea room run by nuns, no less.

Shop til you drop – With so many designer stores and boutiques, it’s difficult to choose, but Tivoli Forum (180 Avenida da Liberdade) has pretty much everything you’ll need.

AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE

In the 18th century, Lisbon’s fashionable thoroughfare was lined with gardens exclusively for the well-to-do. These days, it’s jammed with designer stores and top hotels. Look out for the gorgeous Christmas decorations, too.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Jorge V (3 Rua Mouzinho da Silveira, tel. , hoteljorgev.com, rooms from €80) is a small, intimate hotel that does a great breakfast.

Must eat – Situated at the top of Parque Eduardo VII, with views down Liberdade to the sea, Eleven (Rua Marquês da Fronteira, Jardim Amália Rodrigues, tel. ) serves accomplished Mediterranean cuisine.

Must drink – The laidback and contemporary La Caffé (129B Avenida da Liberdade) is a light, airy café with stunning views over the avenue and its Christmas illuminations.

BAIRRO ALTO

No Lisbon guide can leave out this famous district with its narrow streets, bars and boutiques.

Sleep soundly – Pensão Londres (53 Rua Dom Pedro V, tel. , pensaolondres.com. pt, rooms from €60) is a simple, no-frills guest house.

Must eat – Set your taste buds alight at Siamese restaurant Sukhothai (77 Rua da Atalaia, tel. ).

Must drink – Café Luso (10 Travessa da Queimada) serves good wine and Fado – traditional folk music.

Dance the night away – Head to Fragil (126 Rua da Atalaia) for hip hop. This small, intimate spot attracts a young, fashionable crowd.

Shop til you drop – Inês Nunes Atelier (148 Rua do Diário de Noticias) sells designer jewellery, some of which you can put together yourself.

Compiled by Chris Graeme