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Italy : Milan - December 2007

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The heady seasonal bustle of December softens Milan’s chiselled, business-like edge. The city has a magical feel, as fairy lights shimmer on the cobblestone streets and enthusiasm simmers in the air. Kathryn Tomasetti soaks up the holiday spirit as she uncovers the best bargains and hippest hotspots in town

Getting around

The nearest airport is Malpensa, 48km from the city centre.

Bus: A shuttle-bus runs from the airport to Centrale station. The 50-minute journey costs €4,50, with buses leaving every 20 minutes between 4.30am and 12.15am.
Train: The Malpensa Express runs from the airport to central Milan, taking around 40 minutes and costing €11.
Taxi: A taxi into central Milan takes about an hour and costs €75.
Tourist information: The main office is at 19a Piazza Duomo ( , milanoinfo.eu).

IL CENTRO

Milan’s buzzing city centre, marked by the Duomo, is a Christmas shopper’s paradise, with most stores open seven days a week.

Sleep soundly – Peek behind the 18th-century façade of Straf (3 Via San Raffaele, , straf.it, rooms from €260) for funky furnishings of cutting-edge concrete and shimmering copper. Hotel London (3 Via Rovello, , hotel-london-milan. com, rooms from €100) has an unbeatable central location.

Culture vultures – Take advantage of the crisp winter sunshine and climb the Terrazze del Duomo (Piazza del Duomo). From the cathedral’s rooftop, the view over the city – with the Alps on the horizon – is breathtaking.

Must drink – Zucca in Galleria (21 Piazza del Duomo) was composer Giuseppe Verdi’s favourite locale. Mingle with the post-work crowd at the Art Deco Victoria Café (1 Via Clerici).

PORTA ROMANA

Off the beaten tourist track, the more residential Porta Romana area is home to many of the city’s artist and designer hangouts.

Must eat – La Rondine (11 Via Spartaco, ), across the street from Fondazione Prada, plies its classic Milanese menu to a savvy crowd. Giulio Pane e Ojo (10 Via Ludovico Muratori, tel. ) was once a brothel, but in its current incarnation as a restaurant serves Roman recipes in a candlelit setting.

Must drink – Sip scrumptious cocktails within Milan’s old city walls at Ragno d’Oro (2 Piazzale Medaglie d’Oro).

Dance the night away – Boasting an eclectic mix of international DJs, Plastic (120 Viale Umbria) is one of the city’s top late-night venues. On a budget? Dance through the doors on a Sunday, when entry is free.

SANT’AMBROGIO

Teeming with students, the district’s tiny streets and alleys surround the magnificent Sant’Ambrogio church.

Sleep soundly – Book a charming room at Antica Locanda Leonardo (78 Corso Magenta, , anticalocanda leonardo.com, rooms from €150), steps from the home of Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’.

Must eat – Head to Hare Krishna haven Govinda (3 Via Valpetrosa, ) for its €7 lunch, a vegetarian platter of four different dishes with juice, homemade bread and tea. The fabulous courtyard at Trattoria Toscana (58 Corso di Porta Ticinese, ) is just the spot for a romantic rendezvous.

Shop til you drop – Hit the streets around Sant’Ambrogio church for Milan’s favourite street fair, Oh Bej! Oh Bej! (7-10 December). Stalls at this annual event – a celebration of the city’s patron saint – sell everything from mulled wine to handcrafted clothing.

CORSO GARIBALDI

An eccentric mix of boutiques and bars, Corso Garibaldi is sandwiched between the districts of chic Brera and up-and-coming Paolo Sarpi.

Sleep soundly – Visit Europe’s oldest ginkgo tree at Orto Botanico di Brera (28 Via Brera). At the same address, Pinacoteca di Brera houses a massive collection of paintings by Italian greats, including Titian and Caravaggio.

Must drink – The best fishmonger in Milan, Pescharia da Claudio (16 Via Ponte Vetero), offers an afternoon aperitivo – white wine, served with the catch of the day.

Dance the night away – A Milanese institution, Hollywood (15 Corso Como) has been a favourite with the fashion crowd since the 80s.

Shop til you drop – For everything from socks to soaps, wander the rooms at High Tech (12 Piazza XXV Aprile), unchanged since the days when the building was a private home. Aspiring chefs should head to Il Cucchiaio di Legno (13 Via Ponte Vetero) for the latest in trendy kitchenware.

Compiled by Kathryn Tomasetti