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Israel : Tel Aviv - December 2007

Country Code: Dial 2 for Israel

Tel Aviv’s 24-hour city status makes it the perfect place to head for in the festive season. Hanukkah (4-12 December) puts everyone in a celebratory mood, while Sylvester – the Israeli New Year’s Eve – is as good excuse as any for Tel Avivians to go out. Tobi Cohen packs her party kit

Getting around

Ben Gurion International Airport is 20km south-east of Tel Aviv.

Train: There’s a train station outside the terminal. The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and a single ticket costs €2/NIS 12.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 20 minutes and should cost no more than €17-21/ NIS 100-120.
Tourist information: The main office is at 46 Herbert Samuel Street (tel. , visit-tlv.co.il).

JAFFA

Dating back to the Bronze Age, this is one of the world’s oldest ports and the city’s only mixed Arabic/Jewish neighbourhood. Because of the area’s old-meets-new charm, a hipper crowd is moving in and a raft of boutique hotels is in the pipeline.

Culture vultures – Wander through the restored historical port area, where significant sites are marked. Look out for the Clock Tower, Zodiac alleys, Andromeda’s Rock (in the port), St Peter’s Church, Mahmoudia Mosque and the Libyan Synagogue, which is now a museum.

Must eat – Second-generation hummus maker Abu Hassan is famous for his hole-in-the-wall eatery Ali Karavan (1 Dolphin Street, tel. ). Pita, hummus and a variety of toppings are served on plastic plates at this eat-and-go institution. It closes once the hummus has run out (which it always does), so make sure you arrive before 1pm.

Dance the night away – Resembling a smaller version of Paris’s Porte de Clignancourt, Jaffa’s colourful flea market sells everything from brass knick-knacks to covetable vintage furniture. While you’re there, stop off at Puah Café (3 Rabbi Yohanan Street), where specialities include Israeli salad (diced cucumber, tomato, lemon juice, tahini and olive oil) and shakshuka (fried eggs mixed with tomato).

NEVE TZEDEK

Tel Aviv’s first Jewish quarter, founded in 1887, has been beautifully restored and is now dotted with homespun (yet pricey) boutique stores and cafés.

Sleep soundly – In a city that’s surprisingly short on inspiring hotel interiors, the recently-opened Nina Cafe Suites Hotel (29 Shabazi Street, tel. , ninacafehotel.com, rooms from €136/NIS 781) is a find. Annexed to a charming café, this mini-boutique hotel is perfect for visitors wanting to feel like they have their own apartment in the city.

Culture vultures – For contemporary dance, head to the Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre (6 Yehieli Street).

Must eat – Café Mia (55 Shabazi Street, tel. ) is a meeting spot for local artists and designers who come here for nana (mint tea) and coffee. The café serves a mix of Middle Eastern and European cuisine, including its signature Israeli breakfast. Pop next door to Dolce Mia to sample one of their delicious pastries.

TAYELET

Hebrew for promenade, this 6km strip is the city’s focal point. You’ll find the main hotel zone here, alongside some upmarket restaurants and bars.

Sleep soundly – The relatively high-end Hotel Dan Tel Aviv (99 Hayarkon Street, tel. , danhotels. com, rooms from €190/NIS 1,091) is a favourite among repeat travellers. When booking, make sure you request a suite with views of the Mediterranean.

Must eat – Manta Ray (Alma Beach, tel. ) is an upscale seafood restaurant that’s justifiably popular with Tel Avivians. The mezze dishes, such as salmon tartare and tahini, are excellent and the homemade flatbread is a treat.

TEL AVIV PORT

Originally built in the 30s for new migrants, Tel Aviv Port was transformed in 2002 into a sleek waterside complex.

Dance the night away – Savvy locals start their evenings at Whisky A Go Go (3 Hata’arucha Street), a multi-storey lounge bar that’s designed to look like a 19th-century New Orleans bar. After midnight, the bar transforms into a pumping dance venue – get there early to guarantee entry.

Shop til you drop – Comme il Faut House (Bait Banamal, Hangar 26) is a women-only complex that houses a spa, restaurant and boutique. Comme il Faut is an exclusive Israeli designer label that makes clothes for ‘real women’, while the spa is aimed at similarly self-aware ladies and offers courses such as yoga and belly dancing.

Compiled by Tobi Cohen