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Italy : Cagliari - January 2008

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‘Secrets only become interesting once they are let out of the bag’. This Sardinian saying couldn’t be more true of its breathtaking capital, Cagliari. For centuries locals have basked in the reflected glory of this medieval masterpiece. Now more and more tourists are being seduced by its charms, both ancient and modern. Nigel Wilson reveals all

Getting around

Cagliari Elmas Airport

Bus: ARST blue buses run to Piazza Matteotti every 30 minutes from 8.45am to 11.40pm. Go to the bus stop in front of Arrivals. The journey takes about 15 minutes and costs €2 for a single ticket.
Taxi: Taxis are available outside the airport terminal and cost from €15-€18 to the city centre. The journey takes 10-15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 95-97 Piazza Matteotti (tel. , aast.ca.it). There are also tourist information points at Via Mameli and Elmas Airport.

CASTELLO

From its awe-inspiring palazzos and churches to the cobbled pavements and street sellers weighed down by sacks of chestnuts, the medieval district of Castello is a place where the 21st century seems to slip away.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Regina Margherita (44 Viale Regina Margherita, tel. , www.hotelreginamargherita.com, rooms from €120) is so resplendent with old-school glamour that you may be tempted to replace your casual wardrobe with black tie.

Must eat – At Lo Spiedo Sardo (47 Via Palomba, tel. ) life moves at a very different pace; the couple who run it are proponents of the slow food movement. Expect daily specials of al dente pasta and fresh fish. Arrive early as demand for their local delicacies is always high.

Dance the night away – Ribot (15 Piazza Michelangelo) is Cagliari’s only 24-hour venue. Music is provided by an eclectic rota of local musicians. Be warned, though – the tempting menu of antipasti and cocktails could interfere with any intentions of strutting your stuff on their tiny dancefloor.

MARINA

Turquoise waters, restaurants laden with fresh fish, and shops full of intricate lace and soft leather… Just some of the attractions that draw crowds to the most atmospheric part of Cagliari, both by day and at night.

Sleep soundly – With its inviting mosaic pool, fabulous outdoor restaurant and palm-lined terraces, the Hotel Panorama (Viale Diaz, tel. , hotelpanorama.it, rooms from €150) is one of the finest places in town to rest your head.

Must eat – S’Apposentu (Via Sant’Alenixedda, ) is located on the second floor of the Teatro Lirico opera house, and boasts Cagliari’s most extensive wine menu. Although one of the city’s more expensive restaurants, it still offers incredible value – the fresh lobster in herb butter is less than €25.

Shop til you drop – Bruno Busonera (8 Via Eleonora d’Arborea) has been creating intricate jewellery and silverware for more than 20 years. His tiny studio is the perfect place to find a gift, and offers an insight into the ancient traditions of filigree.

STAMPACE

Italians often say that while the English have a pub at the end of every road, they have a church. But while there’s no denying that Stampace boasts Cagliari’s most ornate and ancient churches, the increase in tourist numbers means that a cooling Italian beer is never too far away either.

Sleep soundly –

Culture vultures – While the story of the humble loaf may not sound like a fascinating subject, the Museo del Pane (Viale Baccarini) – Stampace’s museum dedicated to bread – is well worth a visit. For Sardinians, bread has an almost mythical quality. Throughout their history it has helped them survive sieges and been the backbone of their diet if crops have failed. The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday.

Must drink – Literally meaning Swiss Bar, Caffè Svizzero (6 Largo Carlo Felice) used to be best known as the place to take afternoon tea but a new cocktail list and an influx of the young and beautiful have now given it a whole new lease of life.

Compiled by Chicca Marelli