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Switzerland : Geneva - January 2008

Country Code: Dial for Switzerland

Geneva is much more than just a stopover on the way to the slopes. As well as being home to several humanitarian organisations, it also offers some of the finest dining, most luxurious hotels and best shopping you could possibly wish for. Lou McMullen discovers that this city of peace is also a jigsaw of vibrant pieces

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

CORNAVIN

Handily located in the centre of the city, the area around the train station boasts chic bars and restaurants.

Sleep soundly – The neoclassical architecture of the Hotel Royal (41 Rue de Lausanne, tel. , manotel.com/royal, rooms from €208/ CHF 350) makes it a classy choice. Its sister hotel is the chalet-style Hotel Edelweiss (2 Place de la Navigation, , www.manotel.com rooms from €149/CHF 250).

Must eat – For excellent Italian food, head for Nologo (11 Rue de Fribourg, tel. ), where you can watch your meal being prepared in the open kitchen. At higher prices, the Perle du Lac (128 Rue de Lausanne, tel. ) serves delectable French cuisine with a panoramic lake view.

Must drink – For pre-dinner cocktails, try Le Scandale (24 Rue de Lausanne), a lounge bar where the music and friendly staff create a relaxed atmosphere.

Shop til you drop – Rue des Alpes runs from the station towards the lake and is packed with all manner of Swiss souvenirs like cuckoo clocks, music boxes and Swiss Army knives.

OLD TOWN

Spectacular architecture makes Geneva’s Vieille Ville well worth a visit.

Sleep soundly – The family-run Hôtel Central (2 Rue de la Rôtisserie, tel. , www.hotelcentral.ch, rooms from €85/CHF 140) is a cheap and cheerful option. If you have more to spend, enjoy the tranquil luxury of the 19th-century La Cigogne (17 Place Longemalle, tel. , www.cigogne.ch, rooms from €300/CHF 480).

Culture vultures – Enjoy spectacular views by hiking up the 157 steps of the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre (Cour Saint-Pierre). Geneva is known as Calvin’s City, and it was from this church that he preached in the 16th century.

Must eat – Meat-lovers will particularly enjoy Restaurant au Carnivore (30 Place du Bourg-de-Four, tel. ) while, for varied local specialities, Café Papon (1 Rue Henri-Fazy, tel. ) is a sure-fire hit.

PLAINPALAIS

Geneva’s most up-and-coming area is home to some of the city’s most fashionable bars and restaurants.

Culture vultures – The Patek Philippe Museum (7 Rue des VieuxGrenadiers, patekmuseum.com) boasts an impressive collection of timepieces from the 16th century onwards.

Dance the night away – Check out the futuristic decor at Club 17 (17 Rue du Vélodrome) or, if Latino music and concerts are more your thing, head straight for the Palladium (3 Rue du Stand).

Shop til you drop – Wrap up warm and take a wander round the Marché aux Puces (Plaine de Plainpalais, on Wednesdays and Saturdays). This huge flea market is full of real bargains – especially if you’re prepared to haggle.

RUES BASSES

All the big designer names are gathered together in these few streets.

Sleep soundly – Along the Rue du Rhône is where you’ll find prestige watchmakers, jewellery and designer clothes. Cartier and Rolex rub shoulders with Gucci, Versace and Louis Vuitton to drop but a few names. Don’t miss the Place du Rhône, where you can burn calories with a spin on the outdoor ice-skating rink. Behind Rue du Rhône is Rue du Marché, full of boutiques and department stores. Shop for gifts at Swatch and Davidoff Cigars.

Must eat – The Relais de l’Entrecôte (49 Rue du Rhône, tel. ) has only one choice on the menu – succulent steak cooked in a famous sauce whose ingredients are a closely guarded secret. For a wider range of dishes, make your way to brasserie L’Esquisse (7 Rue du Lac, tel. ), which serves classic French cuisine.

Must drink – After all that retail therapy, relax at Arthur’s Rive Gauche (7-9 Rue du Rhône) a sumptuous bar-lounge along the river. Expect a beautiful, Champagne-sipping crowd.

Shop til you drop – Along the Rue du Rhône is where you’ll find prestige watchmakers, jewellery and designer clothes. Cartier and Rolex rub shoulders with Gucci, Versace and Louis Vuitton to drop but a few names. Don’t miss the Place du Rhône, where you can burn calories with a spin on the outdoor ice-skating rink. Behind Rue du Rhône is Rue du Marché, full of boutiques and department stores. Shop for gifts at Swatch and Davidoff Cigars.

Compiled by Louise McMullen