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Italy : Milan - January 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Sitting as it does in the shadows of the Alps, Milan is better adapted to life in winter than many Italian cities. January sees two local obsessions come to the fore – shopping in the sales and enjoying a warming glass of red at a bar. Matt Barker shook the snow off his Tod’s and joined the throng

Getting around

The nearest airport is Malpensa, 48km from the city centre.

Bus: A shuttle-bus runs from the airport to Centrale station. The 50-minute journey costs €4,50, with buses leaving every 20 minutes between 4.30am and 12.15am.
Train: The Malpensa Express runs from the airport to central Milan, taking around 40 minutes and costing €11.
Taxi: A taxi into central Milan takes about an hour and costs €75.
Tourist information: The main office is at 19a Piazza Duomo (tel. , milanoinfo.eu).

VIA PONTE VETERO AND CORSO GARIBALDI

Outdoor heaters ensure a pavement culture still thrives in winter (especially with a smoking ban in place), while the Milanese love of bars and nightlife means there’s always plenty going on behind closed doors. Winding its way from the outskirts of Brera and up towards Moscova and Corso Como, this stretch is peppered with bars, restaurants and small shops.

Must eat – Da Claudio (16 Via Ponte Vetero, tel. ) is a modish fish bar that often spills out onto the pavement, so look out for animated diners waving chunks of tuna at passers by. Al Matarel (75 Coros Garibaldi, tel.) is a cheerful trattoria serving local dishes to a high spirited clientele.

Must drink – Le Barrique (12 Via Antfiteatro) is a smart wine bar blending the old and new, with its exposed arches and cool lighting. L’Ecurie (corner of via Ponte Vetero and Piazza del Carmine) is a real charmer, a central bar with all the cheery bonhomie of a neighbourhood drop-in.

Shop til you drop – Sidecar Eventi (59 Corso Garibaldi) is home to an ever-changing store. Here, various local designers take over the premises for a limited five-week period before another batch moves in. Writing & Design (60 Corso Garibaldi) sells a range of neat designer stationery.

BOVISA

Milan’s former industrial quarter is now a hub of arty goings-on and university outbuildings.

Sleep soundly – The Chedi Milan (24 Via Villapizzone, tel., hotel-milano-the-chedi.com, rooms from €198) is a new designer hotel with swanky add-ons and a destination bar. Hotel Valganna (32 Via Giovanni Battista Vare, tel. , www.hotelvalganna.com, rooms from €114) is a touch more old school.

Culture vultures – The Triennale Bovisa (31 Via Lambruschini) is a large-scale, multifunctional exhibition space, with a bookshop, a café and a conference room attached.

CINQUE GIORNATE

Set on the outskirts of the centro storico’s inner ring, this network of side streets and long thoroughfares has a cheery independent spirit.

Culture vultures – The San Pietro in Gessate (Piazza San Pietro in Gessate) church dates from 1476 (and before that, was home to a community of Benedictine monks).

Must drink – Milan may be a coffee-fixated city, but the locals are gently being seduced by the delights of L’Arte di Offrire il Thé (35 Via M. Melloni), a tearoom and gallery offering freshly-made exotic brews. The Swami Café (12 Viale Monte Nero) is a well-stocked bar that just occasionally hosts live music.

MARGHERA

The stretch along Via Marghera and its various off-shoots is fast becoming the city’s best spot for bar-hopping and nightlife.

Sleep soundly – The Piemonte (1 Via Ruggiero Settimo, tel. , hotelpiemonte.it, rooms from €100) is quiet with helpful staff. The Atahotel De Angeli (8 Via Trivulzio, , www.quarkhotel.com, rooms from €109) is sleek and business-minded.

Must eat – Slurping on an ice cream in the depths of winter may seem odd, but don’t miss a trip to Gelateria Marghera (33 Via Marghera, ). Marghera 37 (37 Via Marghera, tel. ) is a lively place for brunch or an early-evening buffet.

Must drink – Al Caffe’ Marghera (51 Via Marghera) is a popular happy hour haunt. Mujio (9 Via Guido d’Arezzo) is a hip cocktail bar with modish décor and a jazzy soundtrack.

Shop til you drop – Franco e Barbara Di Davide (9 Via Belfiore) is a treasure trove for cashmere jumpers and scarves. Cornici in Cortile (35 Via Marghera) is a small artists’ shop, with limited edition prints for sale.

Compiled by Johnny Goodhart