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Italy : Naples - January 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The rough diamond of southern Italy is a dynamo of sights and sounds – fantastic food (especially pizzas, which were invented here), fabulous art, terrific architecture and genuinely friendly locals. And, at the moment, its cultural scene is enjoying something of a revival. Jan Fuscoe dives right in

Getting around

Naples International Airport at Capodichino.

Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13. An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)

CENTRO STORICO

The ancient heart of Naples is the epitome of the city’s colourful chaos, with an almost overwhelming array of fine art and old stones.

Sleep soundly – Housed in a former palazzo complete with stained glass, Costantinopoli 104 (104 Via S Maria di Costantinopoli, , costantinopoli104.it, rooms from €165) is stylish and tranquil.

Culture vultures – Take the guided tour at Napoli Sotterranea (68 Piazza S Gaetano) to see the city below the city – tunnels and chambers that in some cases date back to the fourth century BC.

Must eat – O’Munaciello (26-27 Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, ) is a conveniently situated purveyor of great Neapolitan staples like seafood and pizzas.

Must drink – Most of the bars on lively Piazza Bellini are worth trying, but Intra Moenia (70 Piazza Bellini) is one of the largest, and it also sells books.

Shop til you drop – Spaccanapoli is the long street that splits the old city down the middle. It’s busy, full of interesting shops and churches, and a good source of presepi (traditional cribs that all Neapolitans buy at Christmas).

CHIAIA

This is where you come for the classic view of Naples – and a much needed rest from the bustle of the centre.

Sleep soundly – Paradiso (11 Via Catullo, , hotelparadisonapoli.it, rooms from €95) is set on the hill of Posillipo, which means you get great views of the bay. Many rooms have their own private terrace, too.

Must eat – Coco Loco (31 Piazza Rodinò, tel. ) has a handful of candle-lit tables on its terrace. Their skillful dishes, such as lobster and prawn salad scented with lemon, pull in discerning locals. For fish dishes that are simpler but still excellent, try the tiny Dora (30 Via Ferdinando Palasciano, tel. ) – its waiters sing as they work.

Must drink – Upmarket yet still relaxed Enoteca Belledonne (18 Vico Belledonne a Chiaia) has a fabulous wine list, with most glasses at affordable prices.

Shop til you drop – The recently-opened Culti SpaCafé (47 Via Carlo Poerio) is a super-swish concept store selling textiles, art, perfumes and homewares.

ROYAL NAPLES

Spreading out from the grandiose, recently cleaned Piazza del Plebiscito, this historic district is awash with grand buildings and regal statues.

Culture vultures – World-class opera venue Teatro San Carlo (93F Via San Carlo) is second only to Milan’s La Scala, and it drips with gold and velvet. A short stroll away is the Palazzo Reale (Piazza Trieste e Trento) – the Royal Palace – which is worth a visit for its huge, ornate apartments and paintings of Neapolitan rulers.

Must eat – La Bersagliera (10-11 Borgo Marinaro, ) is on the harbour front, and suitably strong on fish. Try its signature mussel and clam soup

VIA TOLEDO

The pedestrianised Via Toledo is Naples’s main street, lined with palazzi, banks and upmarket shops.

Culture vultures – The Museo Archeologico Nazionale (19 Piazza Musco) has one of the world’s best collections of Greek and Roman antiquities, including mosaics, sculpture, glass, and silver from Pompeii. See more recent artworks at the contemporary gallery MADRe (Via Settembrini).

Must eat – La Taverna del Buongustaio (8 Via Basilio Puoti, ) is an excellent trattoria with no-menu, instead the waiter rattles off the dishes of the day.

Shop til you drop – A paradise for chocoholics, Gay Odin (214 Via Toledo) has several branches in Naples – its factory in Chiaia still uses antiquated machines to produce the wares.

Compiled by Matt Barker