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France : Toulouse - January 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

With more than one million inhabitants, Toulouse is the fifth largest city in France. It’s also a major player in the European aerospace industry and home to the headquarters of Airbus and the Toulouse Space Centre. But, as Terry Marsh reports, it still retains all the lively charm of a student town

Getting around

Toulouse-Blagnac Airport is 8km north-west of the city.

Bus: A shuttle bus leaves every 20 minutes for the city centre. A single ticket costs €3,90, and a return is €5,90.
Taxi: There are specific taxi stands at the airport, or you can order one by phone. A journey to the city centre costs around €25.
Tourist information: The main office is on Square du Général de Gaulle (tel. , toulousetourisme. com).

ESQUIROL

Ranged along the east bank of the Garonne, Esquirol is a lively quarter that’s popular with tourists, students and businessmen alike.

Sleep soundly – Overlooking the river, Hôtel des Beaux Arts (1 Place du Pont Neuf, tel. , www.hoteldesbeauxarts.com, rooms from €105) is entirely non-smoking, with an excellent in-house restaurant that serves regional cuisine. You can also hire bicycles from the front desk.

Culture vultures – Capitole (Place du Capitole) is the home of the city hall and Théâtre du Capitole. The building is remarkable for its façade complete with pink marble columns, Cour Henri IV (the courtyard where Duc de Montmorency was executed in 1632) and the paintings in the ornate Salle des Illustres.

Must eat – Close to Pont Neuf, Brasserie des Beaux Arts Chez Flo (1 Quai de la Daurade, tel. ) offers rustic local food such as cassoulet (a slow-cooked bean stew with pork sausage and goose fat) and an excellent seafood menu.

Must drink – Esquirol Bar (19 Place Esquirol) and Le Piccadilly (10 Place de la Trinité) are among the best places in the Esquirol district to enjoy a convivial kir and cocktails.

Shop til you drop – Rue des Arts is home to many refined boutiques, but for something less pricey head for the regular markets in Place du Capitole

QUARTIER ST-ETIENNE

Elegant buildings and antique shops jostle for space in the compact area north of Jardin Royale.

Sleep soundly – Close to La Halle aux Grains (Place Dupuy) and the historic heart of the city, Appart’Valley (7 Rue Pont Montaudran, tel. , www.appartvalley.fr, rooms from €52) is a comfortable and stylish apartment hotel, ideal for families and groups.

Culture vultures – Now the home of the tourist office, the architecturally magnificent Donjon du Capitole (Square Charles de Gaulle) dates from the 16th century and was the archives tower during the time when the Capitouls were responsible for the administration of the city.

Must eat – Chez Fazoul (2 Rue Tolosane, tel. ) is the perfect place for traditional food at affordable prices.

Must drink – Café des Amidonniers (43 Allée Brienne) is a cool place for a cool drink. Otherwise, head here for a coffee – there’s quite a selection.

CENTRE WILSON

Flanking the long boulevard Allées Jean-Jaurès and rippling outwards into numerous side streets, Centre Wilson is a bustling arena on the edge of the city centre.

Sleep soundly – Best Western Les Capitouls Jean Jaurès (29 Allées Jean-Jaurès, tel. , bestwestern-capitouls.com, rooms from €115) is housed in a former private mansion and elegantly combines the charm of Toulouse brick vaults with the most modern of creature comforts.

Culture vultures – Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de Toulouse (35 Allées Jules-Guesde) has recently been fully restored and fresh collections have been added to give the museum a new lease of life. Exhibits include minerals, meteorites and fossils, as well as several species of animal that are now extinct.

Must eat – La Gourmandine (17 Place Victor Hugo, tel. ) is a bar/restaurant that’s the ideal venue for a quick lunch. It serves traditional and regional French cuisine – dishes tend to be based around what’s available in the nearby market.

Must drink – Les Coulisses (5 Boulevard de Strasbourg) serves a wide selection of champagnes and wines, as well as good tapas.

Shop til you drop – At Espace Saint Georges Centre Commercial (main entrance on Boulevard Carnot) there are some 50 shops and restaurants that await your undivided attention, including Zara and Sephora.

Compiled by Robin Gauldie