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Italy : Cagliari - March 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Getting around

Cagliari Elmas Airport

Bus: ARST blue buses run to Piazza Matteotti every 30 minutes from 8.45am to 11.40pm. Go to the bus stop in front of Arrivals. The journey takes about 15 minutes and costs €2 for a single ticket.
Taxi: Taxis are available outside the airport terminal and cost from €15-€18 to the city centre. The journey takes 10-15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 95-97 Piazza Matteotti (tel. , aast.ca.it). There are also tourist information points at Via Mameli and Elmas Airport.

CASTELLO

Dominated by 12th and 15th-century architectural masterpieces, Castello is the city’s historic heart. Arriving here, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d been transported back in time.

Must eat – At Italia (30 Via Sardegna, tel. ) good food and drama go hand in hand. Expect pigs to be crackling as they are spit-roasted on the open fire, and more than the odd raised voice as the excitable staff put on a show of Italian temperament and passion.

Dance the night away – Hip-hop and traditional Sardinian music may not seem like the most comfortable of musical bedfellows. But somehow Peyote (Via Cagliari, Villasimius) makes this unlikely fusion work, and the dance floor is rammed throughout the evening.

MARINA

Forget any preconceptions of deeply tanned Eurotrash and replace them with visions of a harbour lined with whitewashed boats, and fisherman eager to tell you their tall tales. This is the place to come for fresh fish – and an insight into real Sardinian life.

Sleep soundly – Full of character, Old Caralis is one of the island’s quaintest bed and breakfasts. The welcome here is incredibly warm, and the beds are swathed in local linens.

Must eat – Hibiscus (81 Via Dante, Quartu S Elena, tel. ) boasts Cagliari’s most enticing bougainvillea-drenched gardens, and serves excellent fish dishes. You can eat beneath the stars, and breathe in the calming scent of the herbs that both surround you and arrive ready to sprinkle on your food.

Shop til you drop – Il Telaio (3 Via Sarrabus, Muravera) has been creating and manufacturing hand-dyed fabrics since time immemorial. And with their new range of organic products, they’ve managed to merge an old-school aesthetic with a very modern ethos. Their pashminas and bed throws are particularly desirable.

POETTO BEACH

Poetto is probably the island’s most visited beach, and it’s certainly the most talked-about, with its white sands and crystal waters. It also boasts some of Sardinia’s best restaurants and bars.

Sleep soundly – Views don’t come much better than those from the balconies at Hotel Califfo (118 Quartus S.Elena, tel. , hotelcaliffo. com, rooms from €90). Think bright-blue skies, bluer seas and as much people-watching as you like, virtually all year round.

Culture vultures – A short boat ride from Poetto lies the spectacular Capo Carbonara Villasimius marine park. Head here for crystal waters, charming dolphins and technicoloured fish that’ll swim right between your toes.

Must eat – Strictly speaking Al Tonno di Corsa (47 Via Marconi, Carloforte, ) isn’t actually on Poetto, but it’s only one stretch of white sand away, and its excellent carpaccio of tuna is well worth the short stroll. There are also plenty of local pasta dishes on offer.

STAMPACE

With more than a slight air of austerity, Stampace is the city’s most sacred destination. It’s also home to a host of breathtaking churches and monasteries, as well as some intriguing candle-lit chapels.

Must drink – Not only does Linea Notturna (154-156 Via Mameli, ) serve excellent cocktails and bar snacks that would put the food in most restaurants to shame, they also have an excellent selection of Sardinian games. Any visitors wanting to learn the odd card game or two can sign up to the classes that run regularly here. Caffè Svizzero (6 Largo Carlo Felice) is a local institution, serving tea, coffee, snacks and a choice of delicious cocktails.

Shop til you drop – Ceramiche Artistiche Cav Luigi Nioi (91 Via Carmine, Assemini) must be Sardinia’s premier ceramic workshop. Owner and chief designer Luigi blends local traditions with more international elements.

Compiled by Nigel Wilson