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France : Marseille - March 2008

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Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT

Guarded by twin fortresses, filled with glamorous yachts and encircled by sunny terraces, Vieux Port is vibrant and bustling at almost any hour, from the fish market in the early morning until late at night when the last bars and clubs close.

Sleep soundly – Hôtel du Palais (26 Rue Breteuil, tel. , hotelmarseille.com, rooms from €80) is perfect for a short break. It’s smart, comfortable, affordable and just a few minutes’ walk from the port’s lively restaurant scene.

Culture vultures – Don’t miss the contemporary Japanese ceramics and exquisite traditional prints on show at Maison de l’Artisanat et des Métiers d’Art (21 Cours d’Estienne d’Orves) from 7 March.

Must eat – Get a shot of Provençal culinary sunshine at the informal subterranean Lei Moulins (4-6 Boulevard Tellene, tel. ), where bare rock walls are part of the decor. Alternatively, toast the coming of spring at La Trilogie des Cépages (35 Rue de la Paix Marcel Paul, tel. ), which has an eclectic wine selection that perfectly complements the refined cooking.

Shop til you drop – Learn the art of bathing and stock up on indulgent treats such as olive oil soaps at La Compagnie de Provence (18 Rue Francis Davso).

CASTELLANE & PRADO

The boulevard that heads south from the centre towards the city’s bourgeois suburbs is the venue for one of Marseille’s largest street markets. Beyond it, Le Corbusier’s legendary high-rise housing project draws architectural pilgrims. Most famously, this area is home to the Olympique de Marseille football team (om.net), whose Stade Vélodrome is the venue for three home matches in March.

Must eat – The dish of the day at Le Ventre de l’Architecte (280 Boulevard Michelet, tel. ) is creative cookery served up in the iconic surroundings of Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse apartment building. It comes complete with a side order of shimmering sea views

Shop til you drop – Soak up the spring colour at Avenue du Prado’s Wednesday morning flower market (between Place Castellane and Boulevard Périer on the even-numbered side of the street).

CORNICHE & PARC BORÉLY

Breezy walks on the beach, excellent seafood restaurants and superb sea views lure visitors to Marseille’s shoreline whatever the season. If the weather should turn inclement, there are cultural treats in store too.

Sleep soundly – With its neoclassical exterior and modern interior, Villa Massalia (17 Place Louis Bonnefon, tel. , marseille.concorde-hotels.com, rooms from €107) is a striking new luxury hotel situated on the edge of Parc Borély. Le Petit Nice (Anse de Maldormé, Corniche Kennedy, tel. , petitnice-passedat. com, rooms from €230) offers a nice line in boutiquey intimacy and sea views, and has a renowned restaurant.

Culture vultures – Catch up on 30 years of contemporary art, including video performances by Yoko Ono and others, at Musée d’Art Contemporain (69 Avenue de Haïfa).

Must eat – Stunning uninterrupted views across to Marseille’s islands, plus impeccable fish and seafood dishes, create a memorably nautical experience at Peron (56 Corniche Kennedy, tel. ).

Dance the night away – Marseille’s racecourse is the unlikely setting for L’Hippodrome (16 Avenue Pierre-Mendès France), a slick, glossy venue popular with local celebrities and ideal for sipping cocktails and dancing.

Shop til you drop – Extraordinarily colourful and remarkably lifelike trompe-l’oeil fruits and vegetables are the stock in trade at Faïencerie Figueres (10-12 Avenue de Lauzier). Established for more than 50 years, the store also sells more stylised white ceramics, with designs featuring fish and seashells.

Compiled by Neville Walker