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Italy : Bologna - April 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Springtime sees Bologna’s inhabitants take to the streets, converging on the city’s squares in order to see and be seen. It sometimes feels as if everybody is outside, hellbent on enjoying the bright sunshine, fine food, and good conversation. Massimo Benvegnù joins the throng

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

PIAZZA MAGGIORE

Bologna’s main square is home to its biggest tourist attractions. The side streets that surround the square are studded with several hidden gems, too.

Sleep soundly – Probably the best-appointed bolthole in the city, Hotel Commercianti is a permanent fixture on Italy’s ‘best hotel’ lists. The frescoed rooms here certainly enjoy some amazing views of the city.

Culture vultures – Architect Antonio di Vincenzo wanted to build a church bigger than St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, but the Vatican forced him to stop. Still, San Petronio (Piazza Maggiore) is the fifth biggest church in the world, although its façade has been unfinished since 1390. Nearby is the Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio (1 Piazza Galvani), the original site of the city’s university, and now a museum. It’s far from staid though – its cloisters are usually buzzing with live music.

Must eat – Italy is the country of gelato, so don’t try and resist the gluttonous temptations of Sorbetteria Castiglione (44 Via Castiglione, tel. ). Try the Michelangelo sorbet with cream and almonds.

Must drink – Duca D’Amalfi (3/a Piazza dei Celestini) is considered by many to be the best patisserie in Bologna. Indulge in croissants, or cannoli and sfogliatelle (pastries filled with sweetened ricotta cheese or almond paste).

PIAZZA OBERDAN

Slightly less touristy than some quarters, Piazza Oberdan is a charming spot where you can shop, walk or just sit outside a café and watch Bolognese life pass by.

Sleep soundly – Located in the former 14th-century residence of the Azzo Guidi family, the Hotel Corona d’Oro has welcoming suites and quiet rooms.

Culture vultures – The pick of the city’s many museums, the Museo Civico Medievale (4 Via Manzoni) has a huge collection of art and artefacts from the Middle Ages on display.

Must eat – La Teresina (4 Via Oberdan, tel. ) is a traditional, family-run restaurant where everything is homemade, even the bread.

PIAZZA VERDI

During the 12th century, the Piazza Verdi marked the peripheries of Bologna, and the Mura dei Torresotti (the ancient city walls) are still here to prove it. Nowadays, Piazza Verdi couldn’t be more central.

Sleep soundly – Named after the composer, the affordable Albergo Rossini sits right opposite the Teatro Comunale, the opera house. Luckily, its comfortable rooms are sound-proof.

Culture vultures – The church of San Sigismondo (7 Via San Sigismondo), which dates back to the Middle Ages, frequently hosts gospel concerts.

Must eat – As the name suggests, La Scuderia is housed in what was once stabling for the medieval palace. Now it’s a very smart bar-cum-restaurant, ideal for a relaxed Mediterranean-style brunch.

Shop til you drop – Italian craftsmanship meets African flair at Africadesign (11/a, Via delle Belle Arti), where you can buy unusual gifts – look out for the hand-made jewellery and gorgeous textiles.

PIAZZA DI PORTA RAVEGNANA

Perhaps one of Bologna’s most famous buildings, the Two Towers were erected on this square by local families as monuments to their prestige. If you’re willing to climb the 498 steps to the top of the Asinelli tower, you’ll get a great view of the city.

Dance the night away – Wind up you evening at Sesto Senso club (9/c Via Petroni).

Shop til you drop – Head to Tamburini (1 Via Caprarie) for freshly made cannelloni and lasagne. Paolo Atti & Figli (6 Via Drapperie) is a bakery that makes the best tortellini and focaccia in town.

Compiled by Massimo Benvegnù