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France : Lyon - April 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

Lyon is steeped in history. Cornerstone of the silk trade for some 400 years, the Roman amphitheatres and medieval cathedrals attest to its richly layered past. And this spring, the city will celebrate the 200th birthday of Guignol (the city’s famous puppet) with shows all around town. Laura Sharpe gets retrospective

Getting around

Saint Exupéry Airport

Bus: There is the Satobus every 20 minutes to and from the airport. Buses run from 5.35am to 11.40pm, seven days a week. A single ticket to the city costs €8.60 and the journey takes about 50 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs approximately €50 during the day and €65 at night, taking around 45 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at Place Bellecour (tel. , en. www.lyon-france.com).

1ST & 2ND ARRONDISSEMENTS

Spend an afternoon exploring bustling squares and fashionable boutiques.

Sleep soundly – The Grand Hôtel des Terreaux is perennially popular.

Culture vultures – Nicolas Poussin’s 17th-century work La Fuite en Egypte is currently showing at the Musée des Beaux-Arts (20 Place des Terreaux).

Must eat – Summertime (2 Rue Verdi, tel. ) is laid-back and does traditional French food. Or visit L’Emir, Aux Mille et Une Nuits (44 Quai Saint Vincent, tel. ) for north African cuisine.

Must drink – Enjoy excellent wines at elegant Le Passage (8 Rue du Plâtre). Café 203 (9 Rue du Garet) is snug, and also puts on regular exhibitions.

4TH ARRONDISSEMENT

This district, where silk workers once lived and laboured, is now one of the chicest neighbourhoods in town.

Sleep soundly – Hôtel de la Croix Rousse is family-run and has great views of the city.

Culture vultures – Discover more about the silk workers’ gripping story at La Maison des Canuts (10-12 Rue d’Ivry).

Must eat – L’Assiette du Vin (8 Rue Duviard, 39 07 50) serves up traditional dishes with a twist. Or try Grain de Folie (1 Rue Dumont d’Urville, 07 64 30) for delicious food in intimate surroundings.

Must drink – Café du Bout du Monde (3 Rue d’Austerlitz) is good for cocktails and tapas. Or take in local exhibitions between drinks at Modern Art Café (65 Boulevard de la Croix Rousse).

5TH ARRONDISSEMENT

Littered with cobbled streets and secret passageways, the Renaissance district is the perfect place to take a leisurely stroll.

Sleep soundly – Villa Florentine is blissfully comfortable and overlooks the whole city. The cosy Saint Paul is housed in a medieval building.

Culture vultures – Théâtre le Guignol de Lyon (2 Rue Louis Carrand) has organised the eponymous puppet’s bicentenary, Moisson d’Avril. Puppeteer Jacques Chesnais will be working his magic at Musée Gadagne (1 Place du Petit Collège).

Must eat – Be wowed by the Lebanese cuisine at Layalina (12 Rue Juiverie, tel. ). La Nef des Fous (5 Rue du Boeuf, tel. ) has an excellent, and well-deserved reputation.

Must drink – Pick up vintage wine, regional cheeses and foie gras La Cave des Voyageurs (7 Place Saint Paul).

Dance the night away – La Chapelle (60 Montée de Choulans) plays host to a rota of renowned international DJs.

6TH ARRONDISSEMENT

This district sits snugly between the Parc de la Tête d’or and the city’s central business district.

Sleep soundly – The Hilton Lyon (70 Quai Charles de Gaulle, tel. , hilton.com, rooms from €182) is a stone’s throw from the town centre. Le Britania (17 Rue Professeur Weill, tel. , hotelbritania.com, rooms from €80) is lovely and peaceful.

Must eat – Brasserie de Brotteaux (1 Place Jules Ferry, tel. ) has a cool art deco interior and a vast wine cellar. If it’s a special occasion, Alex Restaurant (44 Boulevard des Brotteaux, tel. ) is a good choice.

Must drink – Le Boudoir (13 Place Jules Ferry) is a stylish and festive bar.

Shop til you drop – L’univers du Japon (81 Rue Tronchet) offers oriental curios.

Compiled by Laura Sharpe