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Italy : Naples - April 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Visiting Naples at any time of year can be a marvellously disorientating experience. However, springtime, when temperatures start to rise but stop short of stifling, is perfect. And although it may not be as picture-postcard pretty as Florence or Venice, for sheer verve and energy, it can’t be matched. Matt Barker puts a spring in his step

Getting around

Naples International Airport at Capodichino.

Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13. An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)

PIAZZA DEI MARTIRI

One of the world’s great port cities, Naples’ waterfront looks out to Mount Vesuvius and along the Amalfi Coast, while the centre is an endless network of Roman streets that lie in the shadow of baroque churches. Deep in the heart of the city’s decidedly posh Chiaia district, the Piazza dei Martiri is the setting for a thoroughly absorbing assortment of cutting-edge art galleries, designer shops and achingly fashionable bars.

Sleep soundly – Alfonso Artiaco showcases work by local artists and established international names. Meanwhile, the Palazzo delle Arti Napoli is a large-scale contemporary museum that has become the focal point for Naples’ arts scene.

Must drink – Chandelier (34-35 Vico Belledonne a Chiaia) is a handsome monochrome affair populated by a friendly crowd. Do your level best to bag one of the sofas here. La Caffettiera (25 Piazza dei Martiri) is a more traditional establishment, with its swanky salon and terrace spilling out onto the square.

Shop til you drop – Celebrated shoe designer Ernesto Esposito (20 Via Santa Caterina a Chiaia) has a broad range of trendy creations for sale. Be warned though, they don’t come particularly cheap.

PIAZZA DEL GESÙ AND SPACCANAPOLI

The lively hub of the centro storico (the city centre) sees daily Neapolitan life played out in the shadow of grand architecture and ancient cathedrals.

Culture vultures – Within a short stroll of the piazza itself, which is home to the Gesù Nuovo church, you can visit the Santa Chiara church (Spaccanapoli) and the magnificent San Lorenzo Maggiore church (Via dei Tribunali).

Must drink – The pastries at Scaturchio (19 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) enjoy a faithful following among locals – with some justification. They’re best washed down with a strong jolt of espresso. The neighbouring Gran Caffè Aragonese (5-8 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) is great for a quick lunch. It also has an extensive cocktail list so is equally good for an early evening aperitivo.

SANTA LUCIA AND THE WATERFRONT

The area just to the south of Piazza del Plebiscito is a handsome quarter, that offers tantalising glimpses of the shimmering Mediterranean.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Rex is an elegant hotel with Mediterranean-style rooms in the shadow of the Castel dell’Ovo. Miramare is a majestic bolthole, with a terrace that overlooks the bay.

Must eat – Pizza and seafood may be most people’s idea of Neapolitan cuisine, but carnivores would do well to head for Ristorante Amici Miei (78 via Monte di Dio, ), a family-run charmer. Overlooking the sea and marina, homely La Scialuppa (4 Borgo Marinaro, ) does good fish.

CAPRI

If you’re staying in Naples for more than a couple of days, treat yourself to a hydrofoil jaunt across the bay and visit this glamorous island.

Culture vultures – If lounging on the beach doesn’t appeal, take a boat to the Blue Grotto, the island’s fabled cave, set in the Faraglioni rocks. Or you could cool off in the Monumentale San Michele church (Piazza San Nicola) in Anacapri.

Must eat – Catch the bus into Capri town and walk the cobbled streets before stopping at Buca di Bacco (35 via Longano, ), a cheap and cheerful trattoria. Try its signature dish of deck-fresh fish soup. La Capannina (12 via Le Botteghe, ) is a more upmarket option, but it still retains a cheerfully affable air.

Compiled by Matt Barker