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Portugal : Porto - April 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

As April temperatures rise and flower-laden trees burst into bloom, Porto’s tourist trickle slowly becomes a full-blown torrent. Get there ahead of the rest, to wander among the landmark buildings or grab a glass of port down by the river. Kathryn Tomasetti steals a march on the summer crowds

Getting around

Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport

Bus: The 601 bus runs to the city centre every half hour, the 602 runs every 15 minutes. The journey takes about an hour and tickets cost €1.30.
Train: The metro runs into the airport terminal and takes 25 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1.35. Trains run from 6.00am to 1.00am.
Taxi: A taxi to the town centre costs about €20 and will take approximately 20 minutes.
Tourist information: 25 Rua Clube dos Fenianos (tel.//, www.visitportugal.com).

RIBEIRA

A maze of ambling allies, Porto’s medieval centre is crammed with unique boutiques and one-off shops.

Sleep soundly – One of the few good spots to stay in Porto’s old town, Hotel da Bolsa offers friendly service and simple rooms.

Culture vultures – Stop in to see the gothic cloisters at Sé Catedral (Terreiro da Sé) decorated with Baroque azulejos (glazed blue and white tiles).

Must drink – Savour a glass of vinho verde (the local white wine) outside Chez Lapin (40-42 Rua dos Canastreiros). The bar’s a sublime spot for people-watching.

BAIXA (CITY CENTRE)

From the modern Praça de Mousinho de Albuquerque to the Art Deco Rua de Santa Caterina, Porto’s city centre has got everything – both cheap eats and exclusive venues.

Sleep soundly – Splurge on an elegant evening at the five-star Hotel Infante Sagres. Similarly full of character, but slightly cheaper, is the Grande Hotel Do Porto (197 Rua de Santa Catarina, tel. , grandehotelporto.com, rooms from €125).

Must eat – Descend into the subterranean Palmeira (182 Rua de Sá da Bandeira, tel. ) for a plate of delectable cod cakes. Stave off afternoon hunger pangs with a couple of pastéis de nata (custard tarts) at Padaria Ribeiro (21-27 Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes), the city’s best bakery.

Must drink – Harry Potter fans should head to the Belle Époque Café Majestic (112 Rua Santa Catarina). It’s said to have been former resident JK Rowling’s haunt of choice and birthplace of the titular hero.

Shop til you drop – Visit the Mercado do Bolhão (Rua Fernandes Tomás), the city’s agricultural market, to check out the day’s fishy catch. Prepare to be wowed by bookstore Livraria Lello’s (144 Rua das Carmelitas) interior, that comes complete with stained glass windows and an arching red stairway.

VILA NOVA DE GAIA

The banks of Vila Nova de Gaia are best visited in the early evening. Enjoy a glass of port and take in the sun’s amber hues reflecting off Ribeira over the river.

Culture vultures – Wander from Ribeira to Gaia across the Luís I Bridge. The bridge was designed by Belgian engineer Teófilo Seyrig (a disciple of Gustave Eiffel) and inaugurated in 1886.

Must eat – Casa Branca (86-98 Rua da Bélgica, tel. ) does tasty traditional fare. The warmer temperatures warrant a visit to Barão de Fladgate’s (250 Rua do Choupelo, tel. ) outdoor terraces, at Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman, which opens its doors on 1 April.

Dance the night away – Hit Hard Club (1158 Cais de Gaia) for live music.

Shop til you drop – Fill your boots with plenty of port at Sandeman (3 Largo Miguel Bombarda). A guided tour through this venerable lodge earns you free tastings and a discount in their on-site store.

FOZ & MATOSINHOS

North of the Douro River and buffeted by Atlantic waves, these are regions with classy beach bars and cool clubs housed in former factories.

Culture vultures – Spend a sunny spring day in the gardens of Fundação Serralves (210 Rua D. João Castro), which are free on Sundays from 10am-2pm.

Must eat – Designed by famous Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza, Casa de Chá Boa-Nova (Avenida da Liberdade, Leça da Palmeira, tel. ) is built into a sheer cliff face. For the best bacalhau (salt cod) at bargain prices, dine at Salta-Ó-Muro (386 Rua Heróis França, tel. ), which pulls in a local crowd.

Dance the night away – Join the creative crowd at the perenially popular Indústria (843 Avenida Brasil, Centro Comercial Foz).

Compiled by Kathryn Tomasetti