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Spain : Barcelona - May 2008

Country Code: Dial for Spain

The capital of Catalonia, the semi-autonomous northeastern corner of Spain, is an effervescent, cosmopolitan city. A place of assertive independence, it has a robust cultural identity and a thriving arts scene. Make the most of May’s balmy weather to get out and explore. Sarah Ellis points you in the right direction

Getting around

El Prat

Bus: The nearest airport is El Prat Airport, about 12km from the city.

BARI GOTIC

The oldest part of the city, the gothic quarter, is the real core of Barcelona. Its labyrinthine streets are packed with unique shops, restaurants, bars and other quirky spots.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Banys Orientals is trendy and elegant.

Must eat – Try Maoz (13 Carrer de Ferran, tel. ) for Barcelona’s nearest thing to a take away. Your pitta bread and falafel can be stuffed with as many vegetarian goodies as you please.

Must drink – La Champaneria (7 Reina Cristina) offers a proper taste of Iberian culture, where you can drink a €2 bottle of Cava surrounded by locals and hanging joints of meat.

Shop til you drop – Bari Gotic is full of tiny, quirky shops like Casa Alia (33 Banys Nous), which sells porcelain dolls, and Mon I Mon (12 Carrer Unio), which has globes.

PLACA DE CATALUNYA

Keep your distance from the stags and hens of Las Ramblas and come here for heaving restaurants and serious shopping.

Culture vultures – Four themed walking tours leave the Tourist Information Office (17-S Plaça de Catalunya) every day. They’re a great way to get your bearings, particularly at the beginning of your holiday.

Must eat – The first place to display Picasso’s work, Els Quatre Gats (3 Carrer Montsio bis, tel. ) shows bags of modernist art and serves great Mediterranean food too.

MONTJUIC

On the western side of the city, majestic Montjuic looms over the port. The mountain’s foot is surrounded by the arty district of Poble Sec.

Sleep soundly – Caixa Forum is a spectacular arts space hosting numerous exhibitions on rotation. Throughout May the gallery will be showing work by Jonathan Meese, a graffiti-inspired contemporary artist.

Must eat – Tapioles 53 (53 Carrer Tapioles, tel. ) serves intricately prepared food and is rather exclusive – you’ll need to knock to get in.

Must drink – Take the funicular railway from Paral-lel, then the cable car up the mountain. After a short walk, you’ll get to La Caseta de Migdia (Montjuic), a charming little place with music, barbeques and breathtaking views. Perfect for chilling out on sultry evenings.

Dance the night away – Sala Apolo (113 Carrer Nou de la Rambla) opens late. You’ll hear everything here, from rock to reggae.

GRACIA

Gracia’s politics are as self-evident as the Catalan flags that flutter from every balcony here. This maze of narrow lanes and squares isn’t as modern or sophisticated as the city’s central streets, but it’s a great place to catch your breath and see a more relaxed side of Barcelona.

Must drink – Café Del Sol (16 Placa Del Sol) is a lively bar with a fabulous atmosphere and a terrace for sunny days.

Shop til you drop – Many of Gracia’s shops are steeped in tradition. Camiseria Pons (49 Gran de Gracia) has been making shirts for over a century. Elisa Brunnels (30 Torres de C’olla) is also lovely – the jewellery here is made in a workshop overlooking the store.

Compiled by Sarah Ellis