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Switzerland : Geneva - May 2008

Country Code: Dial for Switzerland

Springtime in Geneva is hard to beat. The long, cold, dark days of winter have drawn to a close, the mercury rises and the international set flock back to the pretty lakeside city, still fringed by soaring, snow-capped mountains. Ian McCurrach uncovers some of the locals’ best-kept secrets

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

CAROUGE

Imagine groovy Greenwich Village crossed with the boho chic of Le Marais in Paris and you’ll know why Carouge attracts the city’s coolest crowd.

Culture vultures – By far the most interesting offering in this area is Galerie Delafontaine (24 Rue Jacques-Dalphin). The space is owned by the community and rented out to local artists and ceramicists.

Must eat – For a blow-out treat, try La Bourse (7 Place du Marché, tel. ). In the 18th century, this was where grain traders negotiated their prices. Today, it’s a magnificent space and a favoured hang-out of smart diners with savvy palettes.

Must drink – Qu’Importe (1 Rue Ancienne) pulls in a chic clientele. It has an extensive wine list, good bar snacks and a pretty terrace – perfect for whiling away the lengthening evenings.

Dance the night away – With its minimalist décor, Bar du Nord (66 Rue Ancienne) packs quite a punch.

Shop til you drop – Cruise the stylish designer boutiques and individual handicraft stores that line Rue St-Joseph. Patricia d (8 Rue St-Joseph) does Eastern-inspired womenswear such as soft pashminas in bright colours and richly embroidered kaftans.

LES PAQUIS

La Rive Droite (right side of the lake) is still being regenerated. Much of it is pedestrianised and it’s a melting pot of new galleries, bars, ethnic restaurants and design stores.

Sleep soundly – The ritzy Eastwest Hotel opened its doors last December to much acclaim. A period façade hides a contemporary, chic interior.

Must eat – Cross the Pont du Mont Blanc and enjoy the tasty treats served up at Le Lacustre (5 Quai GénéralGuisan, tel. ).

Shop til you drop – Drool over the wallets, watches and jewellery in the shops on rue des Paquis.

QUARTIER DES EAUX-VIVES

This dynamic district is slightly edgier than most quarters in Geneva. It attracts everyone from young professionals and fashionistas to the international institutional workers from the United Nations.

Sleep soundly – The five-star Hotel Metropole looks out over Lake Geneva. It has well appointed rooms decked out in polished wood and rich colours, a fabulous spa and not one, but two restaurants.

Culture vultures – Take in an art-house movie in its original language with subtitles at Cinema les Scala (23 Rue des Eaux-Vives).

Must eat – Bouche Cherie (50 Rue de Monthoux , tel. ) is a play on words meaning ‘darling mouth’. If you come here, make sure you try the prime cuts of beef.

Must drink – You’ll get to schmooze with everyone from students to politicians at La Clemence (20 Place du Bourg-de-Four).

Dance the night away – For hot house beats, head straight to JAVA Club (19 Quai du Mont-Blanc).

Compiled by Ian McCurrach