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Previous issues for Marseille

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France : Marseille - May 2008

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With one foot in the Mediterranean and more than a hint of North Africa on the streets, Marseille comes alive in spring. It’s a great time to visit this bustling city, especially as there are more than a thousand bicycles for hire – and the first 30 minutes pedalling is free. Rupert Wright takes us for a ride

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT

Few cities are blessed with such a perfect natural location – this is probably the best harbour in the Mediterranean. Find a spot in the sunshine, order a glass of pastis and soak up the atmosphere.

Sleep soundly – La Residence du Vieux Port (18 Quai du Port, tel. , www.hotelmarseille.com, rooms from €100) is right on the waterfront. The rooms may be small, but they’re perfectly formed and the views are incredible.

Culture vultures – Discover what the city’s first Phoenician settlers, and those who followed them, built and believed in at the Musée d’Histoire de Marseille (1 Square Belsunce).

Must eat – 6 Quai des Epices (6 Quai du Port, tel. ) serves good seafood in an informal setting with surprisingly attentive service. One advantage Marseille has over other French cities is that’s inhabitants are willing to try something other than duck or foie gras, as attested to by the presence of Asian restaurant Apsara (151 Rue Sainte, tel. ).

Shop til you drop – If you want to get ahead, get a hat, and there are none more flamboyant than those in Manon Martin (10 Rue de la Tour). Even if you’re not looking for millinery, the street has many other shops stocked with local designers’ work.

NOTRE DAME & CASTELLANE

Dominated by the towering neo-Byzantine basilica of Notre-Dame-dela-Garde, this is widely considered to be Marseille’s chicest area. There is a flower market in the Cours Julien on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, while Friday’s market is given over to organic food.

Must eat – Marseille is the city that brought us bouillabaisse (firm-fleshed fish and seafood simmered in a broth flavoured with garlic, orange peel, saffron, tomatoes, fennel and bay). This is a legendary dish that sends its aficionados into paroxysms of delight. Beware of cheap imitations, though! The best can be found at Chez Michel (6 Rue des Catalans, tel. ). Try your best to bag a table with views over the Anse des Catalans.

Must drink – Pick up baroque jewellery and exquisite dresses at Madame Zaza de Marseille (73 Cours Julien).

THE CORNICHE & PARC BORÉLY

Marseille’s beaches may be rocky, but the water is clear and you get great views of the islands, including Château d’If, the fortress where fictional character the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned. If you want sand between your toes, you can find it at the Plage des Catalans, but you’ll have to pay for the privilege.

Sleep soundly – Built on a rock, Le Petit Nice (Anse de Maldormé, Corniche JF Kennedy, tel. , www.petitnice-passedat.com, rooms from €250) is stylish and friendly and comes with a saltwater swimming pool.

Culture vultures – Musée d’Art Contemporain (69 Avenue d’ Haïfa) displays contemporary art in a giant hanger. Some of the work is bizarre, much is banal, but it’s still worth a visit, mainly for the sculptures in the garden by César and Absalon among others.

Must eat – With its trademark lobster and crab’s legs clarified in ginger, the elegant restaurant of the above hotel, Le Petit Nice Passédat (Anse de Maldormé, Corniche JF Kennedy, tel. ), has just picked up a third, thoroughly deserved, Michelin star.

Dance the night away – What was once an empty dockyard has been put to good use. The Dock des Suds (12 Rue Urbain V) is the place to go if you want to salsa under the Mediterranean starlit sky.

Shop til you drop – Founded in 1781, the Four des Navettes (136 Rue Sainte) bakery has been making navettes (boat-shaped orange-scented biscuits) ever since. As they’re made without yeast, they’ll keep for ages, so make sure you get some to take home.

Compiled by Rupert Wright