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Israel : Tel Aviv - May 2008

Country Code: Dial 2 for Israel

Tel Aviv may be gearing up for its centenary next year, but right now Israel’s commercial, cultural and culinary capital has never been riper for exploration. The Mediterranean metropolis is enjoying a mini-boom in new shops, restaurants and galleries, while May’s soaring temperatures see the city’s beaches fill up. David Kaufman catches some sun

Getting around

Ben Gurion International Airport is 20km south-east of Tel Aviv.

Train: There’s a train station outside the terminal. The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and a single ticket costs €2/NIS 12.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 20 minutes and should cost no more than €17-21/ NIS 100-120.
Tourist information: The main office is at 46 Herbert Samuel Street (tel. , visit-tlv.co.il).

CENTRE

Tel Aviv’s city centre is a veritable open-air museum, filled with the largest collection of Bauhaus architecture in the world.

Sleep soundly – The newly opened Hotel Montefiore inhabits a meticulously renovated 20s mansion and pays homage to the quarter’s Bauhaus architecture.

Culture vultures – On 16-17 May, Tel Aviv throws open its doors for the city’s annual Open House (www.batim-tlv. weekend; two days of organised visits to private homes and iconic buildings across the city. Some 100 sites will be on display this year, and you can also take walking tours with notable local architects.

Must eat – Yonatan Roshfeld’s pan-Mediterranean menu at Herbert Samuel (Beit Gibor, 6 Koifman Street, tel.) features treats like chestnut papardelle, two year-aged soprasetta (Italian sausage) and grilled lamb chops with lamb confit, all served under mobile, wooden pergolas.

Shop til you drop – Located moments from City Hall, Olia (73 Frishman Street) stocks nine premium olive oil blends and flavourful olive tapenades infused with Parmesan cheese or za’atar (Israeli oregano).

PORT

Abandoned for three decades, the Port’s now emerging as Tel Aviv’s most compelling culinary haunt.

Sleep soundly – The Hilton Tel Aviv’s new ‘White City’ suite celebrates the city’s iconic Bauhaus core, boasting endless glass walls and truly breathtaking views.

Culture vultures – Coola (Bayit BaNamal) is a unique spa in the Port that caters for a female-only clientele.

Must eat – Start the day with a champagne brunch at the loft-like Gilly’s (Hangar 25, tel. ). Do dinner at Mul Yam (Hangar 24, tel. ), where Yoram Nitzan drizzles 25-year-old vinegar on grilled shrimp and blends crab, truffles and morels into frothy cappuccino.

Dance the night away – Hear salsa and 80s music at Rivendell (3 HaTa’aruha St) or smooth grooves at the Shablul Jazz Lounge (Hangar 13).

NEVE TZEDEK

Founded in 1887, this tiny quarter is almost two decades older than the city of Tel Aviv itself.

Sleep soundly – The Nina Café Suites is a five-suite retreat hidden within an original, red-tiled building with a style and spirit reminiscent of a Parisian B&B; think European chocolates, daily fresh flowers and in-room massages.

Must eat – Catit’s (4 Haychal HaTalmud, tel. ) East-meets-West creations, such as eggplant and goats’ cheese mousse, and lamb meatballs with chickpeas and rich green meluchiya (an Egyptian herb), represent modern Mediterranean fare at its best.

Shop til you drop – A short stroll away, Alya (13 Amzaleg Street), sells an expertly edited selection of items for the home, bath and kitchen – from elegantly proportioned vases to perfectly dried flower bouquets.

RABIN SQUARE

Rabin Square is the heart of Tel Aviv – home to City Hall, bustling Ibn Gvirol Street and a clutch of the city’s top restaurants and independent retailers.

Must eat – M+R’s (70 Ibn Gvirol Street, tel. ) authentic Parisian menu is full of Left Bank classics. The bakery next door sells their sinfully rich breads and pastries.

Must drink – Martha Kitchen and Bar (26 Ibn Gvirol Street) serves up tasty house-made vodkas scented with cinnamon, lavender or ginger.

Shop til you drop – Cardinal (60 Ibn Gvirol Street) sells Valrhona chocolate flavoured with everything from espresso beans to Atlantic sea salt.

Compiled by David Kaufman