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France : Toulouse - May 2008

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‘La Ville Rose’, the blush-pink capital of south-west France, straddles the broad Garonne River. Once a sleepy provincial backwater, Toulouse is now the nation’s fourth-largest city, famous for biotech research and a dynamic aerospace hub. And come May, the lively student population invests it with a term-time buzz. Sarah Woods learns more

Getting around

Toulouse-Blagnac Airport is 8km north-west of the city.

Bus: A shuttle bus leaves every 20 minutes for the city centre. A single ticket costs €3,90, and a return is €5,90.
Taxi: There are specific taxi stands at the airport, or you can order one by phone. A journey to the city centre costs around €25.
Tourist information: The main office is on Square du Général de Gaulle (tel. , toulousetourisme. com).

ESQUIROL

There’s a refined air to this district that makes it popular with academics, tourists and businessmen alike.

Sleep soundly – The charming Hotel Garonne has bedrooms that overlook the district’s narrow side streets and the scenic Garonne. The hotel’s highly acclaimed restaurant Le 19 has an impressive wine cellar and stocks umpteen makes of cigar.

Culture vultures – Toulouse’s Pont Neuf was built in 1544 and connects the heart of the city with the trendy St Cyprien. Louis XIV himself crossed it in 1659. Enjoy sweeping views from Garonne’s right bank across the HôtelDieu and the Prairie des Filtres Park to the Daurade and Tunis quays.

Must eat – For fine Toulousain food, head to the Brasserie des Beaux Arts Chez Flo (1 Quai de la Daurade, tel. ). Make sure you try the earthy local cassoulet (white kidney beans simmered with duck liver, mutton, sausage, preserved goose and pork) and regional cheeses such as Roquefort, Faiselle and Rocamadour.

Must drink – Drop by the Beaucoup Café Bar Restaurant (9 Place du Pont Neuf). Open from 10am to 2am most days (but closed Monday and Tuesday), it’s a great place to shoot the breeze over some truly explosive cocktails.

Shop til you drop – A succession of chic boutiques and galleries line the ultra-sophisticated Rue des Arts. But if you want to haggle over handicrafts and eclectic knick knacks, check out the vendors on Place du Capitole.

QUARTIER ST ETIENNE

Grand ecclesiastical buildings and old-fashioned treasure troves vie for attention in this historic jumble of antique dealers and soaring spires.

Sleep soundly – Handily located close to the city’s historic core, the Appart’ Valley makes a perfect base for visitors navigating Toulouse on foot.

Culture vultures – Revel in the architectural hodgepodge of construction techniques that is the StEtienne Cathedral (Place St-Etienne), a testament to oddball miscellany.

Must eat – Tucked away in one of the city’s prettiest pink-brick residential neighbourhoods, the homely Fazoul (2 Rue Tolosane, tel. ) serves tasty regional cuisine.

Must drink – Chill out at the Café des Amidonniers (43 Allée de Brienne, tel. ). Sip an aperitif or order a delicious rich-roasted cup of coffee

CENTRE WILSON

A tangle of inviting back streets spreads out from the Allée Jean Jaurès, the dominant backbone of bustling Centre Wilson.

Sleep soundly – Situated near the Place Wilson and the Matabiau train station, the bracingly modern Sofitel Toulouse Centre blends grown-up chic with cosy home comforts.

Culture vultures – After a decade-long revamp, the Toulouse Natural History Museum (35 Allées Jules-Guesde) is at last fully restored and rejuvenated. Expect eye-popping meteorites and plenty of interactive exhibits.

Must eat – The family-friendly Restaurante Le Magret (Marché Victor Hugo, tel. ) serves first-rate duck l’aillade (a dipping sauce made with garlic, walnuts and oil) and good foie gras. It’s open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Sunday.

Must drink – Everybody raves about the menu de vin at Les Coulisses (5 boulevard de Strasbourg), which has an enviable selection of regional vintages and fine champagnes.

Shop til you drop – Pick up charcuterie, oils, nuts, herbs, wines and vinegars at the Maison Busquets delicatessen (21 Place Victor Hugo). The store has been a hang-out for gourmands since 1919.

Compiled by Sarah Woods