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Italy : Bologna - June 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Come summer, Bologna shines. Every bar and restaurant has an outdoor terrace so you can bask in the sun. Then, if the Italian heat gets too much, you can take refuge under the city’s porticos, which stretch for miles. Between an ice cream and a cold drink, Massimo Benvegnù cools off

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA INDIPENDENZA

The main high street that runs through Bologna, lined with shops and bars, is the perfect starting point from which to explore the city.

Sleep soundly – The Una Hotel Bologna (rooms from €130) is perenially stylish.

Culture vultures – The Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna, otherwise known as Mambo, is packed with good modern art.

Must eat – Not a lot at Ristorante Diana has changed since the 50s, and the restaurant’s all the better for it. Even some of the regional recipes have stayed the same, like its famous tortellini (pasta stuffed with meat and Parmesan).

Must drink – Start your day with a pastry accompanied by a deliciously creamy cappuccino at Caffè Pasticceria Impero, one of Bologna’s best cafés.

PIAZZA MAGGIORE

The main square, appropriately known as ‘maggiore’ (the major), is central to Bolognan street life. In summertime people hang out by the grandiose Neptune fountain, sometimes even seeking respite from the heat in its blissfully cool waters.

Sleep soundly – The elegant Hotel Commercianti (rooms from €220) has got a central location. Some of the rooms here have balconies, with glorious views of the city.

Culture vultures – Inside the City Hall, the Museo Morandi is entirely devoted to the work of Bologna-born painter Giorgio Morandi. The museum holds the artist’s personal collection, some of his best-known paintings, and a mock-up of his study.

Must drink – Sip an aperitif at Zanarini and if you’re here at the weekend, try their Saturday brunch.

Dance the night away – During the summer, the Bolognese tend to travel to nearby Rimini for the city’s huge clubs. There are a few alternatives in the city centre, though, one of which, Kinki, celebrates its 50th anniversary this year.

VIA CASTIGLIONE

Leave the crowds and head to quiet Via Castiglione to get a taste of the real Bologna.

Sleep soundly – If you’re on a budget but don’t want to skimp on style, the quiet and comfortable Albergo delle Drapperie (rooms from €60) is a good choice.

Must eat – You can’t go wrong with Sorbetteria Castiglione, where they create different flavours of ice cream for each season. Don’t miss their summer collection, which includes some lovely granitas (sugared ice flavoured with almonds, mint or mandarins).

Must drink – Drogheria della Rosa does traditional dishes with an innovative twist. Try the classic tagliatelle in ragu or ravioli with aubergine, tomato and basil. This excellent (but surprisingly affordable) restaurant has its fair share of celebrity visitors, including Arnold Schwarzenegger and Francis Ford Coppola.

Shop til you drop – For sharp Italian tailoring, head to the excellent Zinelli, which has been doing business since 1937. If you prefer prêt-à-porter, the L’Inde le Palais (6 Via De Musei) boutique stocks contemporary lines of men’s and womenswear.

VIA DEL PRATELLO

During June, things start to hot up at Via del Pratello, a favourite spot with the city’s huge student community. Clubs here stay open til late, and often the street itself turns into one huge all-night party.

Must eat – End your evening in style at Nu Lounge, where the city’s fashion mavens gather for late-night drinks.

Must drink – Kick things off with a cocktail at the gothic-themed Monastero.

Compiled by Massimo Benvegnu