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Germany : Hamburg - June 2008

Country Code: Dial for Germany

As one of the greenest cities in Europe, Hamburg flourishes during the summer months. Parks morph into buzzing hives of activity, the bustling beach clubs are packed out and residents flock to the banks of the Alster to walk, dine and drink. Farhad Heydari heads for the waterside

Getting around

Hamburg Airport is 9km north-west of the city.

Bus: Coaches to the centre depart every 15 minutes from 6am to 7pm, then at 20-minute intervals until 11pm. Single tickets cost €5
Train: The airport doesn’t have a direct rail connection to the city centre. The nearest station is at Ohlsdorf, served by the S1 and S11 trains and U1 underground line. A single ticket is €2,60 and the journey takes 20 minutes.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main office is at Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken, between bridges 4 and 5 (tel. , hamburgtourism. de).

ALSTER

The aqueous heart of the city, this river-cum-lake is lined with row boats, yachts, kayaks and canoes.

Sleep soundly – The stately Fairmont Vier Jahreszeiten (rooms from €250) sits right on the Alster. Newcomer Le Royal Meridien (52-56 An der Alster, 000, leroyalmeridien-hamburg.com, rooms from €199) has rooms equipped with plasma TVs and entertainment systems.

Must eat – Situated on the upper banks of the Alster, Allegria has a brand new waterside terrace. Come here for deftly executed international dishes.

Must drink – Ciu is an upscale boîte that looks right out over the water. On the eastern edge of the Alster lake, A Mora (An der Alster) is fast becoming the watering hole of choice for Hamburg’s fashionable set, closing in on perennial favourite Cliff (13 Fährdamm).

STADT PARK

Hamburg’s second largest park is punctuated by glassy pools and ornamental gardens as well as a tidal basin. You can rent paddle boats here.

Sleep soundly – Explore the cosmos or just take in a lecture at Planetarium Hamburg, which is housed in a former water tower.

Must eat – Landhaus Walter serves traditional German dishes.

Must drink – Raise an ice-cold glass of Weizen and nibble on Bratwurst at Schumachers Biergarten. Named for its large terrace, Café Sommerterrassen, (44 Südring) is slightly more upmarket.

BLANKENESE

Shaded by century-old oaks, this residential neighbourhood perches on the River Elbe. Its narrow lanes are lined with elegant turn-of-the-century villas and old fishermen’s cottages.

Sleep soundly – On the banks of the Elbe, the petite Hotel Louis C Jacob ( rooms from €210) is easily one of Hamburg’s best. Founded in 1791, its pretty path is canopied by 200-year-old lime trees.

Must eat – A hymn to Germanic gastronomy, Röperhof is a Hamburg institution. If you’re after something more refined, Seven Seas (12 Süllbergsterrasse, tel. ) is presided over by chef Karlheinz Hauser, whose inventive cuisine has been awarded a Michelin star.

Must drink – With its backlit surfaces and low lighting, Linde is a great place for after-dark drinks.

HARBOUR

Once Germany’s main international gateway, Hamburg harbour is still the country’s busiest port and the second largest in Europe. But come summer, it’s full of fun-loving locals.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Hafen (rooms from €110) overlooks the Elbe. A stone’s throw away, the Madison Hotel (4 Schaarsteinweg, 6660, madisonhotel.de, rooms from €130) has an award-winning spa and a standout restaurant.

Must eat – Eurocrats lounge on the outdoor veranda at La Vela. Locals head for Lust auf Italien (133 Große Elbstraße, 2811), where rustic bench seating and generous portions make for a relaxed atmosphere.

Must drink – Set on the northern banks of the Elbe, Lago Bay and Hamburg City Beach Club (4 Van-der-Smissen Straße) pull in a crowd of hip young things who recline on loungers sipping island-inspired cocktails to the sound of upfront house.

Dance the night away – Decked out in bright whites and sectioned with partitions, brand new club-cum-lounge Club la Nuit is already attracting a too-cool-for-school clientele.

Compiled by Farhad Heydari