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Slovenia : Ljubljana - June 2008

Country Code: Dial 6 for Slovenia

The Slovenian capital is a seriously sexy place to be in summer. As the weather warms up, Ljubljana’s cobbled streets throng with well-heeled residents, while the willow-strewn river pulls in more than its fair share of stylish locals. Robin McKelvie takes a ringside seat and watches the action

Getting around

Brnik Airport

Bus: The bus journey from the city centre to Brnik Airport usually takes 35 minutes, but can last up to an hour when the roads are busy. A one-way ticket costs €10.
Taxi: A single journey from the airport to the city centre for up to four passengers costs €30 and takes about 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is the STIC at Krekov Square (tel. , ljubljana.si).

THE CENTRE

The centre of Ljubljana is packed with striking architecture and, being relatively flat, it’s easy to get around.

Sleep soundly – The Grand Hotel Union is housed in a lavish art nouveau building. It has two parts, Executive and Business, and is a favourite with A-listers. Fluxus is a bright and friendly hostel with dorms and double rooms.

Culture vultures – The Ljubljana Summer Festival is staging some of its best events down at the Krizanke Theatre (1 Trg Francoske Revolucije).

Must drink – England Pub (8 Mala cesta) is a popular new arrival that serves international beers and some decent Slovenian tipples. Salon (23 Trubarjeva cesta) is a chic lounge bar with low-slung sofas.

Dance the night away – Klub K4 (4 Kersnikova) caters to an esoteric student-led clientele and often stages live music performances.

OLD TOWN

The fairy-tale old town is awash with cobbled squares and gorgeous historic buildings.

Culture vultures – Ljubljana Castle (Grajska planota) is the capital’s most dramatic landmark and enjoys amazing views of the city and the surrounding mountains. You can get there by funicular, tourist train, taxi or on foot.

Must eat – Chez Eric (3 Mestni Trg, tel. ) fuses French and Slovenian cuisine. Vodnikov Hram (2 Vodnikov Trg, tel. ) specialises in sturdy Slovenian cooking.

Must drink – Café Galerija (5 Mestni Trg) feels like an exotic boudoir and is a good place for a first date. Vinoteka Movia (2 Mestni Trg) showcases some of the country’s excellent wines.

Shop til you drop – The Conkarjevo nabrezje flea market (held in the Old Town on Sunday mornings) is great for all sorts of wacky souvenirs, including old Yugoslav army memorabilia.

RIVERSIDE

The relaxed banks of the Ljubljanica River are where locals come to cycle, stroll or just chill out on summer days.

Sleep soundly – The Alibi Hostel is an excellent choice if you’re on a budget. The Most Hostel is situated right by the Dragon Bridge.

Must eat – Pri Vitezu (20 Breg, tel. ) serves up well cooked meat and fish dishes in a characterful dining room with a distinctly 19th-century feel. A spicier alternative is Namasté (8 Breg, tel. ), which serves the city’s best Indian food infused with the freshest herbs.

Must drink – Bustling pub Zlata Ladjica (1 Jurcicev Trg) sits on the edge of the old Jewish quarter. If you’re into reggae, head for Raggamuffin (4 Krojaska).

TRNOVO AND KRAKOVO

These twin suburbs to the south of the centre are off the beaten track physically and metaphorically, so counter-culture types tend to head here.

Culture vultures – The Church of Saint John the Baptist (1 Kolezijska) was where tragic Slovene poet France Preseren met the unrequited love of his life, Julija Primic.

Must eat – Hrambasa Okrepcevapnica (8 Vrtna, 3106) serves Balkan grilled meats with cream cheese and chunky bread, washed down with killer coffee. Pri Skofu (8 Recna, tel. ) is the place to go for fresh daily specials and cheerful service.

Dance the night away – KUD France Preseren (14 Karunova ulica) pulls in the local bohemian brigade with club nights and all sorts of cultural goings on.

Compiled by Robin McKelvie