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France : Strasbourg - June 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

Artfully blending both historic and futuristic elements, the Alsatian capital erupts into a sound and light show come midsummer, with illuminations, back-to-back music festivals and an annual funfair that pitches up in Parc du Rhin. Anthea Gerrie takes a closer look

Getting around

Strasbourg International

Bus: A bus to Baggersee Station, which has an A-line tram connection to the city centre, leaves every 20 minutes. It takes about 30 minutes and costs €5,10.
Train: Trains leave Entzheim Station every 30 minutes from 5.30am to 8.30pm. The journey to the centre takes 12 minutes and costs €2,10.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs around €35 and takes about 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The central tourist office is at 17 Place de la Cathédrale (tel. , otstrasbourg.fr)

GRAND ILE

The heart of the city is split squarely between a modern shopping area and a gloriously medieval old town lined with charming half-timbered buildings.

Sleep soundly – The handsome and reasonably priced Hotel Hannong is a short walk from the shops. Housed in an intricately decorated old building, Maison Kammerzell is right opposite the cathedral. Maison Rouge has large rooms and is close to the shopping area.

Culture vultures – The pink sandstone Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg (Place de la Cathédrale) took four centuries to build and is best visited shortly before 12.30pm, when the astronomical clock inside kicks into life. The best way to see the rest of Strasbourg’s historic buildings is to take the narrated boat tour. It leaves from in front of the Palais Rohan (2 Place du Château), One ticket buys entrance to the boat, the cathedral clock and the museums within the Palace. The Musée des Arts Decoratifs (Museum of Decorative Arts) here – a riotous assembly of gilded ceilings, trompe l’oeil paintings and eye-popping ceramics – puts even Strasbourg’s elaborate exteriors to shame. The Musée des Beaux Arts (Fine Art Museum) has a wonderful collection of Old Masters.

Must eat – Crowded, cosy Le Clou (3 Rue du Chaudron, tel. ) is a great place for choucroute garnie (pork and sausages with sauerkraut) and other hearty local dishes.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on foie gras at Jean Lutz (5 Rue Chaudron), and Arts et Collections d’Alsace (4 Place du Marché aux Poissons) sells wonderful local linens, carved wood and pottery.

PETITE FRANCE

A picturesque island of watermills and slope-roofed tanneries, Petite France can be reached on foot from both the Right Bank and the shopping district.

Sleep soundly – The four-star Hotel Regent Petite France is right on the river.

Culture vultures – Don’t miss the Ponts Couverts (covered bridges), which enjoy great city views. Nearby, the Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporaine (1 Place Jean Hans Arp) houses a decent complement of Monets, Renoirs and Picassos, as well as work by native son Jean Arp.

Must eat – In a city targeted squarely at carnivores, Poêles de Carottes (2 Place des Meuniers, tel. ) does good vegetarian food.

THE RIGHT BANK

Opposite the Palais Rohan, the buildings lining the Quai des Bateliers are full of treasures. Further on, Quai Finkwiller offers pleasant strolls.

Culture vultures – The Musée Alsacien (23-25 Quai Saint-Nicolas) is a great introduction to the region’s rich but turbulent social history and its folk art.

Must eat – Finkstuebel (26 Rue Finkwiller, tel. ) serves up inventive takes on traditional Alsatian cuisine.

Must drink – The Living Room (11 Rue des Balayeurs) is probably the best place for cocktails in town.

QUARTIER EUROPEEN

This modern face of Strasbourg houses the University and L’Orangerie, one of the city’s largest green spaces.

Culture vultures – If you want to visit the EU buildings, you’ll need to book in advance. But you get great views of the striking exteriors of The European Court of Human Rights and the European Parliament Building from a tour boat.

Must eat – Le Buerehiesel (4 Parc de l’Orangerie, tel. ) does slap-up meals in a beautiful farmhouse setting.

Must drink – Café Brant (Il Place de l’université) is excellent for alfresco aperitifs.

Compiled by Anthea Gerrie