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Poland : Krakow - July 2008

Country Code: Dial for Poland

It comes as a real suprise to many tourists that Krakow can ocassionally get hot – even very hot – in the late summer months. But when the midday sun’s out, luckily there are many breezy outdoor terraces and shady beer gardens offering welcome respite. Michelle Smith chills out

Getting around

Balice Airport

Bus: Radtur runs regular buses into the city centre. A single journey costs about €1,90/PLN 7 and takes 30 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi costs around €13/PLN 50 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Rynek Główny (tel. , krakow.pl). Orbis (41 Rynek Główny) also provides lots of useful information.

OLD TOWN AND RYNEK

The undeniable heart of Krakow, this is where you’ll find most of the city’s sights, restaurants, bars and cafés.

Sleep soundly – If you want to splash out, Art Hotel Niebieski is one of the best, with an idyllic riverside location and a sweeping entrance hall. For something more mid-range, try Wielopole. Just a four-minute walk from the old town, it’s friendly, clean and recently renovated.

Culture vultures – Krakow isn’t short on sights, but in the summer months walking can be exhausting. Why not see Krakow by bicycle? Cruising Krakow Bike Tours (tel. , cruisingkrakow.com) does daily tours of the city’s cultural attractions. They start in the old town before heading around Planty and across the river to Kazimierz, Schindler’s Factory and the Jewish ghetto

Must eat – Come summer, you want fresh, light food. Farinella (5 ul. Anny, tel. ) is a fantastic tapas bar with an outdoor terrace. For fusion food and gorgeously retro decor, head to Orient Ekspres (13 ul. Stolarska, tel. ). The interior is a perfect replica of a steam train, complete with trunks and suitcases. Grab a table in the garden and indulge in a slice of Peggy’s cheesecake, Krakow’s most sinful dessert.

Must drink – There are dozens of places to drink on Rynek Główny, the old town’s market square, but if you want to get away from the crowds make for 3/5 ul. Bracka, where you’ll find a courtyard hiding loads of little bars. If you want to head back to Rynek later, Buddha Bar (6 Rynek Główny) has a gorgeous garden. Or try Cafe Bunkier (3a pl. Szczepanski). It’s right on the edge of Planty, Krakow’s green belt, and has a large outdoor terrace.

KAZIMIERZ

During World War II, Krakow’s Jewish quarter was devastated. Today, thanks to a concerted effort to breathe new life into the area, Kazimierz boasts chic shops, good hotels and a vibrant nightlife.

Sleep soundly – With the introduction of the very high-end Hotel Rubinstein, Kazimierz can now say it has a bona fide luxury hotel. Rooms are furnished in elegant woods and antique features. Located right on the tourist trail, it enjoys fantastic views across the city, but is surprisngly quiet and serene. Those on a budget will love Wrona a cheerful, 14-room guesthouse with huge windows and a river view.

Must drink – In general, Kazimierz is sadly lacking in courtyard drinking. Exceptions to the rule include Pub Stajnia (12 ul. Józefa), which has an amazing garden and is always packed (get there early), and Starka (14 ul. Józefa) next door. The courtyard here is cool and shady all day long, and romantically lit at night.

Dance the night away – Not so long ago, Frantic (5 ul. Szewska) didn’t have the best of reputations, but recently the club has moved up a gear attracting a surprisingly sophisticated clientele. Also recommended is Baraka (1 ul. Warszauera), which plays hip-hop and pulls in a studenty crowd.

Shop til you drop – Traditionally, the best shopping in Krakow has always been in the old town, but now Kazimierz has dozens of charming little shops. Lulu Living (10b ul. Dajwor) is one such place. It sells traditional Chinese furniture, original jewellery, cosmetics and handbags. Once you’ve maxed out your credit card, sit in the shop’s café and recover with a slice of sernik (cheesecake). If you love avant-garde pieces and have the nerve to pull them off, make sure you visit Blazko Kindery (11 ul. Józefa), where the English-speaking staff help customers sort through Grzegorz Blazko’s huge, ultramodern collection.

Compiled by Michelle Smith

Previous issues for Krakow

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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