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Portugal : Lisbon - July 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

Lisbon sizzles in July, but the heat is tempered by the cool sea breeze. High temperatures slow the pace during the day, but a more animated city stirs after dark. And if it all becomes too much, you can always escape to the beach. Paul Bernhardt slaps on the sunscreen and explores

Getting around

Lisbon Airport

Bus: The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm and goes to the city centre, finishing at Cais do Sodré. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought onboard.
Taxi: It’s about a 20 minute taxi ride to the city centre. The fare costs approximately €15, with an extra charge for luggage in the boot. Prices increase by 20% at night and on weekends and bank holidays.
Tourist information: The Lisboa Welcome Centre is located at Praça do Comércio, on the corner of Rua do Arsenal (tel. , www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).

AMOREIRAS

This undulating district of steel and glass is punctuated by pockets of quiet and a number of monuments.

Sleep soundly – Several of the rooms at the modern Dom Pedro Palace offer stunning city views.

Culture vultures – Take a walk across the 18th-century Aqueduto das Águas Livres (Calçada da Quintinha).

Must eat – For pasta the way mama used to make it, book a table at Mezzaluna (16 Rua Artilharia Um, tel. ).

Must drink – If you’re serious about wine, Chafariz do Vinho (Rua da Mãe d’Agua à Praça da Alegria) is a must.

Shop til you drop – The futuristic Amoreiras shopping centre (Avenida Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco) is home to more than 300 retail outlets.

SALDANHA

Lisbon’s commercial hub thrums with life during the summer months.

Sleep soundly – Smart and functional, Olissippo Marquês de Sá is a handy mid-range choice.

Culture vultures – Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (45 Avenida de Berna) dazzles with its outstanding collection of European, Oriental and classical art.

Must eat – O Policia (112a Rua Marquês Sá da Bandeira, tel. ) is good for traditional Portuguese food such as cod grilled over charcoal

Shop til you drop – El Corte Inglés (Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar) sells it all, from gourmet food to clothing.

GRAÇA

This relaxed and leafy neighbourhood is the perfect place to unwind.

Sleep soundly – Albergaria Senhora do Monte (39 Calçada do Monte, tel. , maisturismo.pt, rooms from €99) enjoys a peaceful hilltop perch.

Culture vultures – The landmark Igreja de São Vicente de Fora (Largo de São Vicente) is noted for its adjoining Augustinian monastery and fantastic rooftop panorama.

Must eat – Via Graça (9B Rua Damasceno Monteiro, tel. ) serves strange creations such as rare entrecôte with Belgian chocolate.

Must drink – Off the beaten track, Bar de Graça (43 Travessa da Pereira) pulls in a laid-back crowd.

CASCAIS

Escape the city heat and head west to the coastal resort of Cascais.

Sleep soundly – The rooms at Farol Design Hotel were put together by Portuguese designers. Mooch like a monarch at Residencial Solar Dom Carlos, a former royal manor house.

Must eat – Mull over the menu at Buchanan’s (2 Travessa da Alfarrobeira, tel. ) while sipping a cocktail on the rooftop terrace.

Must drink – Hemingway (58 Marina Cascais) is a cocktail bar and tearoom right on the marina.

Dance the night away – Coconuts (7 Avenida Rei Humberto II de Itália) is always good fun.

Shop til you drop – On the road to Guincho, Casa da Guia (101 Avenida Nossa Senhora do Cabo) attracts discerning shoppers with its cluster of exclusive boutiques.

Compiled by Paul Bernhardt