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France : Lyon - July 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

At 2,000 years old, Lyon is as historically interesting as it is culturally rich. Home to chef Paul Bocuse and nestled between two wine-producing regions, it’s a mecca for foodies. And this month, you’ll be just in time for Les Nuits de Fourvière concerts. Laura Sharpe gets stuck in

Getting around

Saint Exupéry Airport

Bus: There is the Satobus every 20 minutes to and from the airport. Buses run from 5.35am to 11.40pm, seven days a week. A single ticket to the city costs €8.60 and the journey takes about 50 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs approximately €50 during the day and €65 at night, taking around 45 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at Place Bellecour (tel. , en. www.lyon-france.com).

LA CROIX-ROUSSE

Traditionally the home of silk workers, the 4th arrondissement is quickly gaining fashionable credentials.

Sleep soundly – Hôtel Lyon Métropole houses France’s largest urban spa.

Culture vultures – Explore the traboules (covered passageways), originally shortcuts that allowed the transport of textiles and other goods through the city while sheltered from the weather. Start at 3, 6 and 22 Rue des Capucins.

Must eat – Place de Marché (17 Rue d’Austerlitz, tel. ) has a lovely flower-filled terrace.

Must drink – Cool off with a homemade beer at Café Chantecler (151 Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse).

Shop til you drop – Find one-off pieces at Le Village des Créateurs (Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Leynaud).

LE VIEUX LYON

The 5th arrondissement’s UNESCO buildings and bouchons (restaurants serving local cuisine) make a charming quarter.

Sleep soundly – Cour des Loges(6 rue du Boeuf, tel. , courdesloges.com, rooms from €240) is cool and contemporary

Culture vultures – Les Nuits de Fourvière (6 Rue de l’Antiquaille) is the music event of the summer, with a lineup including Leonard Cohen and REM.

Must eat – Les Terrasses de Lyon (25 Montée Saint-Barthélemy, tel. ) enjoys exceptional views of the city. Campagne (20 Rue Cardinal Gerlier, tel. ) is a shady oasis serving light cuisine.

Dance the night away – Head to La Boutique (57 Quai Pierre Scize) for R&B and a dressed-up crowd.

RIVE GAUCHE

The 3rd, 7th and 8th arrondissements are the newest part of the city, home to Olympic Lyonnais football team.

Sleep soundly – Rooms at Mercure Lyon Lumière are sumptuous.

Culture vultures – Place Ambroise Courtois shows open-air films on Tuesday nights. During the day, admire the eponymous architect’s gigantic canvases at Musée Urbain Tony Garnier (4 Rue des Serpollières).

Must eat – Splash out at floating restaurant Bateau Hermès (Quai Claude Bernard, tel. ). Le Bistro Autrement (12 Place Ambroise Courtoise, tel. ) serves generous salads alfresco.

Must drink – Gato Negro (15 Rue Montesquieu) is good if you like of salsa and sangria.

Shop til you drop – Le Centre Commercial de la Part Dieu (Boulevard Vivier Merle) houses 260 shops. » Dance the night away KGB (2 Rue des Bons Enfants) has 45 types of vodka.

Compiled by Laura Sharpe