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France : Marseille - July 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

As the mercury rises, Marseille takes to the streets. July is the ideal time for a boat trip to the Calanques or a day at the beach. If you’re lucky, you’ll also be in time to catch the Festival de Marseille (festival demarseille. com), a cultural extravaganza that runs until 17 July. Neville Walker reports

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT

Marseille’s focus at any time of the year, Vieux Port comes into its own in summer when its café terraces and bobbing yachts set the scene for languid days and balmy nights.

Sleep soundly – The bright, simple décor and port-side location make Hôtel Hermes a good value, central option, and some rooms have terraces overlooking the yachts.

Culture vultures – La Criée Théâtre National de Marseille (30 Quai Rive Neuve) is one of the venues for the FidMarseille, an international festival of documentary film, which takes place from 2-7 July.

Must eat – terrace at La Virgule (27 Rue de la Loge, tel. ) – chef Lionel Lévy’s fashionable, relaxed second restaurant – is the ideal place to spend a relaxing summer’s afternoon. Come here for inventive, Mediterranean-influenced food and wines from the Rhône Valley, Provence and Corsica.

CANEBIÈRE & THIERS

The twin spires of Eglise Saint-Vincent de Paul dominate the upper reaches of Marseille’s great boulevard, La Canebière. From here, streets of stone houses climb to Thiers, the setting for some of Marseille’s best markets.

Culture vultures – Hot, summery colour oozes from the canvasses of Corsican-born Pierre Ambrogiani, whose paintings took inspiration from the landscape around Marseille. His work is the subject of a retrospective at the Palais des Arts (1 Place Carli), which runs until 31 August.

Must eat – A baroque interior and wonderful croissants and chocolate make Plauchut (168 La Canebière, tel. ) a memorable place for breakfast. Le Bouchon Marseillais (43 Rue Adolphe Thiers, tel ) is a fun spot for dinner, with art on the walls and Provençal and Mediterranean tapas on the menu.

Must drink – Enjoy an early morning espresso with a grandstand view of La Plaine market at Au Petit Nice (28 Place Jean Jaurès), which is open from 6.30am.

Dance the night away – Every Friday until 25 July, Rue du Théâtre Français – a pedestrian-only street off La Canebière – becomes La Rue du Tango. Expect dancing under the stars, accompanied by a DJ or an orchestra, from 8pm until midnight. Best of all, it’s free.

Shop til you drop – Place Jean Jaurès is packed with market stalls most days, but it really gets going on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, when there’s fruit and vegetables, organic produce, clothing and fine fabrics up for grabs.

CORNICHE & BORÉLY

With its twisting Corniche, secluded coves and lively beaches, Marseille’s coast is one of the city’s biggest draws, whether you want to catch a cooling breeze, watch a game of beach football or simply unwind over a drink by the sea.

Sleep soundly – You’ll sleep better after a good dinner, so try the luxurious rooms at Le Petit Nice Passédat, where the restaurant has just been awarded a third Michelin star. Otherwise, the simple Hôtel Péron sits next door to the restaurant of the same name, and enjoys the same fabulous sea views.

Culture vultures – Pétanque is as Provençal as lavender, so soak up some local colour at the 46th Mondial La Marseillaise à Pétanque (Parc Borély and other venues), which runs from 6-10 July, with its finale in Vieux Port.

Must eat – With panoramic views over an idyllic fishing harbour, Chez Fonfon (140 Vallon des Auffes, tel. ) serves excellent seafood in a stylish setting.

Compiled by Neville Walker