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Portugal : Porto - July 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

Summer is the season when hardworking Porto folk come out to play. The city’s cobbled streets are bright with flowers, the river bustles with tour boats, and when it comes to alfresco drinking and dining the possibilities seem endless. Paul Blaney kicks back on the banks of the Douro river

Getting around

Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport

Bus: The 601 bus runs to the city centre every half hour, the 602 runs every 15 minutes. The journey takes about an hour and tickets cost €1.30.
Train: The metro runs into the airport terminal and takes 25 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1.35. Trains run from 6.00am to 1.00am.
Taxi: A taxi to the town centre costs about €20 and will take approximately 20 minutes.
Tourist information: 25 Rua Clube dos Fenianos (tel.//, www.visitportugal.com).

RIBEIRA

This district of streets gently wending their way down to the river is chock-a-block with bars, cafés, cosy restaurants and one-of-a-kind shops.

Sleep soundly – Pestana Porto has superb views across the river to Vila Nova de Gaia.

Culture vultures – With its baroque azulejos (blue and white tiles) and gothic cloister, Sé Catedral do Porto (Terreiro da Sé) is a good place to pause and gather your thoughts.

Must eat – For a thoroughly elegant lunch or dinner, check out Restaurante O Comercial (Rua Ferreira Borges, tel. ) in Palácio da Bolsa.

Must drink – O Meu Mercedes (30 Rua da Lada) is the ideal spot for after-dinner drinks.

Dance the night away – You have just missed the biggest party of the year, which takes place on 23 June and sees boat races on the Douro, along with fireworks and all-night revelry. make sure you go next year. If someone hits you over the head with a leek, just smile and hit them back!

BAIXA

With its churches, markets, shops and historic squares, Porto’s city centre is best explored on foot.

Sleep soundly – Just off Rua Santa Catarina, Mercure Porto Centro is a good four-star option if you want to be in the middle of things. If you’re looking to save a few euros, the three-star Quality Inn Porto is also a good bet.

Culture vultures – Built in the 18th century, Torre dos Clérigos (Rua dos Clérigos) stands just shy of 80 metres tall. Unfortunately, there’s no lift to take you to the top, but the views of the city once you’re up there more than justify the climb.

Must drink – Rota do Chá (457 Rua Miguel Bombarda) is an Oriental-style teahouse that serves a selection of brews from all over the world.

Shop til you drop – Rua Miguel Bombarda is studded with boutiques of Portuguese designers – look out for Osvaldo Martins – and those from around the world.

VILA NOVA DE GAIA

Some locals will tell you the best thing about Vila Nova de Gaia is the spectacular view back across the Douro to Porto – don’t listen!

Must eat – D’Oliva Al Forno (354 Rua Brito e Cunha, tel. ) is a very hip restaurant in Matosinhos that will soon be opening an outlet in Lisbon. The beef, pork, fish and pasta dishes here are all excellent.

Shop til you drop – The recently renovated wine cellars at Porto Cálem (26 Avenida Diogo Leite) are well worth a look. Visits invariably finish with a tasting of two different ports and the chance to purchase a souvenir bottle.

FOZ & MATOSINHOS

In the summer months, the city’s residents head out along the Douro to the northern beaches. Here you’ll find cooling sea breezes, and even cooler bars and clubs.

Dance the night away – Twin’s (1000 Rua do Passeio Alegre) in Foz is currently favourite with the after-hours crowd. The club’s three floors house a bar, dance floor, restaurant and smokers’ terrace.

Shop til you drop – Two smart new outlets in Foz are Projectos em Mente (1870 Rua de Diogo Botelho), a thoroughly original interior store, and Clube Chocolate (99 Rua do Padrão), which specialises in cutting-edge fashion by Brazilian designers.

Compiled by Paul Blaney