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Italy : Turin - July 2008

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Turin is famous for its three F’s: Fiat, football and food. Serie A shuts up shop in summer, but you can still discover Fiat’s long tradition of innovative design (as World Design Capital 2008, the city is staging several relevant exhibitions) and sample the slow food Piedmont is famous for. Massimo Benvegnù learns more

Getting around

Caselle airport

Bus: A bus service from the airport to the city centre runs every 30 minutes, from 5.15am to 11pm (see www.sadem.it). The journey takes 40 minutes and costs €5.
Train: Trains run directly into Dora station from the airport. The service departs every 30 minutes (see www.gtt.to.it) and takes 40 minutes. Tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre takes about 30 minutes and costs €35. Tourist information: The city’s main tourist office is at the Atrium, Piazza Solferino (tel. , www.turismotorino.org).

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE

Perched on the right bank of the river Po, this verdant park is a great place to hang out on hot summer days. Rent a bike or a boat, or just take a walk armed with the obligatory cold drink and an ice cream for good measure.

Sleep soundly – With its baroque ceilings and frescoes, Conte Biancamano Hotel (73 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, , hotelcontebiancamano.it, rooms from €75) offers deluxe accommodation at bargain prices.

Culture vultures – Along with the British Museum, Museo Egizio (6 Via Accademia delle Scienze) ranks as one of the best collections of Ancient Egyptian artefacts outside Egypt.

Must eat – Now a burgeoning franchise, ice-cream makers Grom started here. You could call them the Starbucks of the gelato, but in this case they make the genuine article. Libri & Caffè Mood does simple, organic food. Its smoothies and salads are a good alternative to the ubiquitous pizza and pasta.

Must drink – Sip an aperitivo at Gran Bar Caffè delle Vigne (2 Piazza Gran Madre di Dio), then make a pilgrimage to Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio on the adjacent square – this is where the Minis in the original Italian Job bumped their way down the steps.

VIA PO

This lively arcade cuts straight through the city, and remains busy even when the nearby university is closed for the summer holiday.

Sleep soundly – Right next to one of Turin’s landmarks, Mole Antonelliana, Hotel Amadeus manages to be reasonably priced without skimping on creature comforts.

Must eat – At Le Vitel Étonné (4 Via San Francesco da Paola, ) try the vitello tonnato (cold roast veal with tuna sauce), a favourite summer dish with Italians everywhere. A hip young crowd gathers at Tredatre (33 Via Giuseppe Verdi). The pizzas are excellent, and if you still can find some room, try one of the creamy desserts.

Shop til you drop – Antique bookstore Il Cartiglio (32d Via Po) specialises in old prints and is especially good if you’re after an unusual gift.

LINGOTTO

This is the town that Fiat built, and you can still see the remains of the old industrial structures, now converted into fashionable hangouts.

Sleep soundly – Designed by the celebrated architect Renzo Piano, Le Méridien Turin Art+Tech (230 Via Nizza, , lemeridien. com, rooms from €130) is a modern hotel with a truly minimalist feel.

Culture vultures – Built in 1645 by Carlo and Amedeo di Castellamonte, the beautiful baroque altar inside Chiesa di San Salvario (22 Via Nizza) is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Must eat – Home to eight small restaurants, two caffè-bars, an ice-cream stand and various shops, shopping mall Eataly (230/14 Via Nizza) is a foodie’s paradise.

Dance the night away – La Gare (65 Via Sacchi) is one of the city’s best clubs. Head here an alternative atmosphere and an up-for-it crowd.

PIAZZA CASTELLO & SURROUNDS

Many consider Piazza Castello to be the real heart of Turin, and this certainly rings true in summer.

Culture vultures – The former royal residence Palazzo Reale (Piazzetta Reale, adjacent to Piazza Castello) was built in the 16th century, and many of the artefacts you can see inside date from that time.

Must eat – Book your place on the Ristocolor, an old tram that has been transformed into a restaurant. For more information, visit comune.torino.it.

Must drink – Caffè Baratti & Milano (27 Piazza Castello) is the place to see and be seen. Take a seat alfresco and enjoy a spot of people-watching.

Compiled by Massimo Benvegnù