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Italy : Bologna - August 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Visiting Bologna at the height of the summer can be a heated affair. But it would be a shame to hide inside and miss the city’s cool porticos, looming red towers and sun-baked squares. Massimo Benvegnu braves the soaring temperatures to tell us more

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

PIAZZA MAGGIORE

This square is always crowded, whatever the season. In summer, people congregate around the large Fontana di Nettuno that takes centre stage in the adjacent Piazza Nettuno.

Sleep soundly – Art Hotel Orologio is centrally located and cosy.

Culture vultures – Work started on architect Antonio di Vincenzo’s San Petronio (Piazza Maggiore) in 1390, but when it threatened to be bigger than even St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the Vatican halted contruction. Still, it is the fifth biggest church in the world, despite its unfinished façade.

Must drink – A startling departure from the antiquated atmosphere of many of Bologna’s streets, Cafè Le Palais (4 Via de’Musei) is a favourite with the fashion pack. Enjoy smoothies and tea on the terrace.

Dance the night away – A truly original festival, La Manifattura (Parco 11 Settembre) takes place in the park behind the former tobacco factory from which it takes its name. Starting every night at 6pm until 8 August, highlights include a long line-up of live acts and DJs. There’s also good food and performance art. Best of all, it’s free.

PIAZZA OBERDAN

Tucked away a little distance from Piazza Maggiore, the quieter Piazza Oberdan is lined with bars and cafés, which are perfect for people watching.

Sleep soundly – One of the city’s best boltholes, Grand Hotel Baglioni melds modern luxury with classic Italian style.

Culture vultures – Pick of the city’s museums is Museo Civico Medievale (4 Via Manzoni), which has a huge collection of art and artefacts from the Middle Ages.

Must eat – Summer might not be the season for rich, fatty foods, but it’s still worth trawling Via Oberdan for some of the city’s best produce.

Must drink – Try the best espresso in town at Caffè de Terzi (10 Via Oberdan) or enjoy a cooling iced coffee.

Shop til you drop – Summer might not be the season for rich, fatty foods, but it’s still worth trawling Via Oberdan for some of the city’s best produce. Bruno e Franco (16 Via Oberdan) is considered the best store in town for ham, salami and mortadella, while Tamburini (1 Via Caprarie) is the place to stock up on freshly made cannelloni and lasagne.

PIAZZA VERDI

School may be out for summer, but Piazza Verdi – favourite hangout of Bologna’s student community – is still packed with people, especially as the sun sets and the sweltering heat fades.

Must eat – Ristorante Matusel (2 Via Antonio Bertoloni, 1718) pulls in a classy crowd with muted décor and an excellent selection of delicious fish dishes.

Must drink – While you should do your best to bag an outdoor table at Le Stanze (1a Via del Borgo San Pietro), you should also take a look inside to marvel at the café’s 15th-century ceiling while you’re here.

PIAZZA SANTO STEFANO

Renowned as the most romantic part of Bologna, long summer nights see young couples crowd into Santo Stefano square and its surrounding streets. It’s certainly a quiet, peaceful location, and full of history.

Sleep soundly – Take time out to enjoy a good glass of wine at Godot Wine Bar, which has an extensive list of reds and whites.

Culture vultures – Gelateria Gianni (14a Via Santo Stefano) sells the richest ice cream in Bologna. Don’t even think about asking for vanilla – plump for one of Gianni’s imaginative creations with exquisite fillings instead. You might want to skip dinner afterwards.

Dance the night away – Giardini del Baraccano (Viale Gozzadini) runs a variety of different theme nights, including everything from tango milongas (with classes for beginners) to raucous open-air parties, all taking place in the verdant and cool Baraccano gardens.

Compiled by Massimo Benvegnu