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Switzerland : Geneva - August 2008

Country Code: Dial for Switzerland

Geneva’s mild climate means that, come September, autumn still seems far away. The cultural calendar is certainly still packed – this month sees Switzerland’s biggest circus, the Knie, roll into town (to 18 September) and the hordes descend for the La Bâtie music festival (to 13 September). Lou McMullen reports

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

MEYRIN

Close to the airport, Meyrin is fast developing from an overspill suburb into a lively community in its own right.

Sleep soundly – Le Cerf-Volant is one of the cheaper, more intimate hotels around here and has a lovely breakfast veranda to soak up the last of the sunshine.

Culture vultures – Good for families, the Forum Meyrin (1 Place des Cinq- Continents) stages a wide variety of concerts, from jazz to classical.

Dance the night away – Housed in the centre, the Number One Cabaret Club (24 Avenue de Feuillasse) is strictly for the broad-minded.

Shop til you drop – The Centre Commercial de Meyrin (24 Avenue de Feuillasse) is a sprawling complex of shops, bars and restaurants, many with their own terraces for alfresco dining.

CORNAVIN

At the front of Cornavin railway station you’ll find the fairly tame redlight district of Pâquis, while at the back there’s Les Grottes, a former bad area turned good.

Sleep soundly – Try the classic Hôtel Cornavin. Featured in Hergé’s Tintin and The Calculus Affair, it comes complete with the world’s largest mechanical pendulum clock in the lobby. The sunny breakfast room here enjoys the most amazing views.

Must eat – Jeck’s Place (14 Rue de Neuchâtel, tel. ) does incredible Thai and Singapore fusion food. It’s very affordable and understandably popular, so get there early. La Gazelle D’Or (55 Rue du Lyon, tel. ) does Ethiopian/Eritrean cuisine, eaten with delicious flat breads on low cushions in circular grass huts.

Must drink – Sink into the deep sofas at Café Art’s (17 Rue des Pâquis).

PLAINPALAIS

One of the city’s most fashionable areas, full of hot new bars and rich artistic heritage.

Sleep soundly – Charming boutique hotel The Tiffany (20 Rue de L’Arquebuse, tel , hotel-tiffany.ch, rooms from €228/CHF 380) has been faithfully restored to its former belle époque grandeur.

Culture vultures – Housed in a former factory, MAMCO (10 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers) exhibits contemporary art from the early 60s to the present.

Must eat – Café Valaisanne-Chalet Suisse (Place du Cirque, tel. ) serves traditional Swiss dishes such as fondue and raclette (melted cheese with potatoes). It also has a good, reasonably priced wine list.

Must drink – Why shell out for boring touristy postcards when you can get quirky cards showcasing Swiss humour and art for free at the Café La Ferblanterie (8 Rue de L’Ecole-de- Medicine). The former ironmonger’s shop also displays local art.

LES RUES BASSES

Sheer shopping heaven, this area spans the chic Rues du Rhône, de la Confédération, du Marché and de la Croix d’Or.

Must eat – If you like seafood, you must try Café du Centre (5 Place du Molard, tel. ). Pick local specialities such as perch and omblechevalier (char), or try something a little more exotic like tuna carpaccio with coconut milk and lime. Elsewhere, Senso (56 bis Rue du Rhône. tel. ) serves exquisite Italian cuisine and has an extensive wine list.

Dance the night away – Grab a cocktail at Le Baroque (12 Place de la Fusterie), then make your way downstairs to chi chi B’Club.

Shop til you drop – All the best watch and jewellery shops can be found on these streets, along with the main department stores such as Switzerland’s exclusive Bon Génie (34 Rue du Marché). Chocolate lovers should make a beeline for Du Rhône Choclatier (4 Rue de la Confédération).

Compiled by Lou McMullen