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France : Toulouse - August 2008

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It’s easy to forget that Toulouse, with its historic centre, fantastic sausages and rustic cassoulet, has a modern side too. It’s also home to the Ariane 5 rocket and Airbus Industrie, as well as one of the most contemporary music festivals around – Toulouse d’Été, which you’ll catch if you’re here before 8 August. Robin Gauldie reports

Getting around

Toulouse-Blagnac Airport is 8km north-west of the city.

Bus: A shuttle bus leaves every 20 minutes for the city centre. A single ticket costs €3,90, and a return is €5,90.
Taxi: There are specific taxi stands at the airport, or you can order one by phone. A journey to the city centre costs around €25.
Tourist information: The main office is on Square du Général de Gaulle (tel. , toulousetourisme. com).

LES CARMES

Toulouse’s historic centre spreads out in a maze of narrow streets and boulevards around the medieval St Etienne cathedral and the expansive (and expensive) Place du Capitole.

Sleep soundly – Set in a converted 17th-century convent, Grand Hôtel de l’Opera is the city’s best hotel.

Culture vultures – Don’t miss the grand salons of the Capitole (Place du Capitole), the magnificent city hall, or the eclectic architecture of Cathédrale St-Etienne (Place St-Etienne).

Must eat – The Grand Hôtel’s courtyard restaurant, Les Jardins de l’Opera (1 Place du Capitole, tel. ) has a reputation as the best place to eat in the city centre. Try duck with black olives, thyme and lemon.

Must drink – You’ll pay a premium for drinks on the terrace of Le Florida (12 Place du Capitole), but the classic bistro is still worth a visit.

Shop til you drop – Rue St-Rome – Toulouse’s only pedestrianised street – is a 3km stretch of vintage boutiques, elegant jewellers and accessory stores.

ST-CYPRIEN

On the west bank of the Garonne river, St-Cyprien is a newly fashionable district of stylishly refurbished industrial buildings, linked to the centre by a space-age shuttle train.

Sleep soundly – The pink brick façade of Hôtel des Beaux Arts conceals a comfortable, modern interior. Situated just across Pont Neuf from St-Cyprien. it also has free WiFi access and bicycle hire.

Culture vultures – Pablo Picasso’s Minotaur Disguised as Harlequin takes pride of place at Les Abattoirs Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain (76 Allée Charles-de-Fitte), in the former slaughterhouse district.

Must eat – As the name implies, Restaurant des Abattoirs Chez Carmen (97 Allée Charles-de-Fitte, tel. ) is a dream for committed carnivores, with dishes such as cassoulet (white beans, pork, lamb and sausage simmered slowly with garlic and herbs), tripe and a dozen ways with duck, goose and sausage.

Must drink – Overlooking the Garonne, Café des Abattoirs (76 Allée Charlesde- Fitte) does excellent light meals all day and into the evening. Don’t miss the superb patisserie here either.

Shop til you drop – Designer shopping has yet to reach St-Cyprien, but Marche de St-Cyprien is a classic produce market. You can pick up cheese, sausage and pâté for a picnic, or hunt for retro French kitchen kit.

CITÉ DE L’ESPACE

The Ariane 5 booster rocket that lifts many of Europe’s communications satellites and space probes into orbit were designed here – and Toulouse’s high-tech district couldn’t be more different from the city’s historic core.

Sleep soundly – Campanile Toulouse Sud-Est Cité de l’Espace Hotel is conveniently located just off the motorway, and is a 10-minute walk from all the sights of Cité de l’Espace.

Culture vultures – In Cité de l’Espace (Avenue Jean Gonord) itself, you can see a huge scale model of the solar system. There’s also an IMAX theatre, planetarium, museum-piece space capsules, rockets and satellites, full-size replicas of the Soviet Mir space station and Ariane 5 booster, and a Little Astronauts Corner. For information about tickets and the exhibits, visit cite-espace.com.

Must eat – For cooking in the best tradition of south-west France, visit Aux Secrets du Grand-Mère (180 Avenue St-Exupéry, tel. ).

Must drink – Astronaut Café (Cité de l’Espace) serves a decent array of drinks, as well as a child-friendly menu.

Compiled by Robin Gauldie