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Italy : Bologna - September 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Autumn is the perfect time to indulge in Bologna’s favourite activities: immerse yourself in its rich artistic life, treat yourself to the best of local cuisine and stroll through its porticoed streets to see and be seen. Massimo Benvegnù wraps up warm and heads outside

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA DELLE BELLE ARTI

When university classes start up again in the winter months, the buzzing Via delle Belle Arti gets packed out with students. Bars and restaurants here stay open until very late.

Sleep soundly – Set in a beautifully restored ancient building, Hotel Accademia is centrally located and perfect if you’re on a budget.

Culture vultures – The Pinacoteca Nazionale (56 Via delle Belle Arti) holds an impressive collection of paintings. The current exhibition (on until 11 January) is devoted to Amico Aspertini, a revolutionary 16th-century artist and a contemporary of Dürer and Raffaello.

Must eat – Trattoria Belle Arti (14 Via delle Belle Arti, tel. ) has a friendly atmosphere and makes excellent pizza. Its fish menu is also rather good – try the antipasto di mare (seafood antipasto).

Shop til you drop – It’s always fascinating to see inside a violin maker’s shop. At Stefanini (9 Via delle Belle Arti) Bruno Stefanini builds string instruments using traditional methods.

VIA ZAMBONI

Starting from the Two Towers, this street runs beyond the periphery of the city. Walk under its portici and witness the real Bologna first-hand.

Sleep soundly – Best Western Hotel San Donato is a good choice if you’re looking for budget accommodation in the city.

Culture vultures – Since it opened in 1763, the Teatro Comunale (1 Largo Respighi) has been a favourite location for outstanding opera presentations in Italy. From Verdi to Pavarotti, every household name has appeared on this stage. This November, it stages a production of Der Vampyr by Heinrich August Marschner.

Must eat – It may seem blasphemous to suggest visiting a Greek restaurant in Italy, but you should make an exception for To’steki (4 Largo Respighi, next to Teatro Comunale, tel. ), which has an excellent choice of Greek dishes like moussaka and souvlaki.

Dance the night away – Housed in what used to be a traditional ballroom in the late 50s, Kinki (1 Via Zamboni) is one of the few proper clubs in the city centre and pulls in a cosmopolitan crowd

VIA CASTIGLIONE

A quiet street with many charms, right behind the basilica of San Petronio, Via Castiglione offers many opportunities to spoil yourself.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Commercianti is consistently listed as one of the top hotels in Italy. Come here for frescoed rooms with amazing views of the city and every possible comfort.

Must eat – Italy is the country of gelato, and if you think ice cream is just a summery snack, try to resist the gluttonous temptations of Sorbetteria Castiglione (44 Via Castiglione). The sorbets here are masterpieces and have names like Michelangelo (cream and almonds), dolce contagio (pine nuts and caramelised walnuts) and dolce emma (with ricotta, figs and honey).

Must drink – Have a nice glass of red wine or a dark beer at Osteria della Tigre (5 Via Orfeo), a cosy place where you’ll rub elbows with the locals.

VIA OBERDAN

Via Oberdan is a less touristy spot – sit outside a café and watch Bolognese life pass by.

Sleep soundly – The former residence of the Azzo Guidi family in the 14th century, Hotel Corona d’Oro is a classy choice with quiet rooms and suites, but is still close to the city centre

Must eat – La Teresina (4 Via Oberdan) is a traditional, family-run restaurant where everything is homemade, even the bread. Try the tortellini in brodo (tortellini in a light broth), or sea bream with olives, capers and tomatoes.

Compiled by Massimo Benvegnù