Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

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Belgium : Brussels - September 2008

Country Code: Dial for Belgium

Unlike other cities, which wind down for the colder months, Brussels springs back to life at the end of summer, when hordes of expats arrive for work and play. Whether you’re after culture, fun, food or shopping, the international metropolis turns up the heat once the temperatures drop. This month, the Design September festival will see some 50 design-related events take place around the city, while literature lovers will fl ock to the 24th International Antiquarian Book Fair held on 19-21 September. Nina Lamparski shines a light on the best of the rest

Getting around

Brussels Airport

Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.

SAINT-GÉRY

Designer boutiques as chic as anything you’d find in Paris, Soho-inspired art galleries set in old warehouses and a fiesta atmosphere to rival Barcelona – this revitalised neighbourhood is where it all goes down. If you want to squeeze great shopping, culture and hard-core partying into a 24-hour period, Saint- Géry is the place to be.

Sleep soundly – Once the 17thcentury residence of the Spanish ambassador, the lavish Le Dixseptième is now one of Brussels’ finest boutique hotels. Check out its website for excellent weekend deals, offering discounts of up to 30%.

Culture vultures – Take a five-minute walk to Brussels on Stage (17 Galerie de la Reine), a wonderful exhibition hidden beneath arcades near the Grand’ Place. Discover the romantic Vaudeville theatre auditorium, huge historic basements and a lively market garden.

Must eat – Brussels is full of great Moroccan restaurants, but La Kasbah (20 Rue Antoine Dansaert, tel. ) is one of the more beautiful ones. With 120 flickering lanterns, stunning décor and excellent couscous, it’s a culinary Ali Baba’s cave, and comes highly recommended. Make sure to book in advance or arrive early on Fridays and Saturdays. Alternatively, enjoy traditional Brussels cuisine at the amazing Brasserie Horta (20 Rue des Sables, tel. ), designed in 1906 by the eponymous father of art nouveau, Victor Horta.

Must drink – Sain-Géry offers a crazycool mix of cocktail bars, Latin- American joints, alternative hang-outs and old-school live music venues. Let your day come to an easy end by sipping fresh mint tea at the Zebra Bar (33-35 Place Saint-Géry). Then kick off the night at Mappa Mundo (2-6 Rue Pont de la Carpe) or Gecko (16 Place Saint- Géry), both famous for their delectable Mojitos.

Dance the night away – The oh-sosmooth Café Central (14 Rue Borgval) is best for gigs, DJ sets and late-night conversations. Be warned, though: it gets very smoky in here.

Shop til you drop – Fashion mavens will be in style heaven on Rue Antoine Dansaert – pretty much all of Belgium’s biggest fashion designers have opened stores on this strip. For something more unusual, go to Idiz Bogam (76 Rue Antoine Dansaert), commonly considered the holy grail of vintage. You’ll find originals by Chanel and Dior at bargain prices. The latest Japanese gadgets turn up in the wonderfully strange Whazup (14 Rue des Chartreux).

SAINT-BONIFACE & MATONGÉ

What used to be a scruffy, nondescript square with run-down housing has been transformed into one of Brussels’ most vibrant multicultural districts. From restored art nouveau buildings and a booming restaurant scene to the famous African quarter of Matongé, this district in the heart of Ixelles should be top of your must-see list.

Culture vultures – Keep your eyes open and look up as you walk through the Saint-Boniface neighbourhood you’ll spot many an art nouveau gem. For a more modern take on history, visit the Museum of Architecture (86 Rue de l’Ermitage), housed inside a former Masonic lodge.

Must eat – The social epicentre of Place Saint-Boniface is the ever-busy L’Ultime Atome (14 Place Saint-Boniface, tel. ). Packed with young professionals and artsy types, this huge brasserie-style venue serves great breakfasts, traditional Belgian dishes and yummy desserts. It’s also a great spot to share a few beers and soak up the bustling atmosphere. It’s a favourite with locals, so get there before peak lunch and dinner times. Those in search of a more exotic experience should check out the Latin American café El Vergel (39 Rue du Trône, tel. ) for fresh, home-made empanadas (pastries stuffed with meat or fish). Or go to L’Horloge du Sud (141 Rue du Trône, tel. ) and Le Tournant (168 Chaussée de Wavre, tel. ) for authentic African cooking.

Must drink – Take a stroll to the nearby Place Fernand Coq and visit the funky L’Amour Fou (185 Chaussée d’Ixelles). Great art on the walls, a crazy chandelier made of wine glasses, excellent cocktails and comfortable couches make this a great place to chill. Another hot insider tip is Sounds (28 Rue de La Tulipe), a jazz club where local legends jam the night away

Shop til you drop – You’ll find all the major commercial brands on Chaussée d’Ixelles, which runs parallel to the Boniface square. Follow the street from Porte de Namur down to Avenue Louise, one of the city’s most exclusive shopping districts. But for a proper Matongé experience, visit the Gallerie d’Ixelles, which can be accessed via the Chaussée d’Ixelles. Discover colourful African textiles, traditional clothing stores and exotic snack bars here.

PLACE DU LUXEMBOURG

Long gone are the days when the area now known as Plux was full of nostalgic cafés. Set against the gleaming glass structure of the European Parliament, the tiny square and surrounding streets have grown into the ultimate mingling ground for journalists, bureaucrats, lawyers and lobbyists.

Sleep soundly – Spoil yourself with a stay at the divine Warwick Barsey, a short cab ride away from Plux. The interior of this luxurious five-star hotel is the work of French designer Jacques Garcia. Book online for some amazing deals.

Culture vultures – Gain an insider view of Brussels’ bureaucratic bastions and join a live parliamentary sitting or audio-guided visits at the European Parliament (43 Rue Wiertz).

Must eat – Locals rate Il Pasticcio (3 Rue Marie de Bourgogne, tel. ) as one of the best Italian diners in town. If you’re in the mood for sushi, try the understated but excellent Hinodeya (37 Rue Caroly, tel. ).

Must drink – The square really comes alive on Fridays after 5pm. Even during autumn and early winter the outdoor terraces remain busy thanks to the heaters. The Grapevine (11 Place du Luxembourg) is a traditional-looking Belgian bar serving cheap sangria and beers in plastic cups, while Ralph’s next door attracts a yuppie crowd.

JETTE

Once the home of surrealist painter René Magritte, the quaint northern municipality of Jette is “a village in the city” and has become an expat favourite. Cute Sunday markets, small breweries and a surprising number of flower shops make this green town a charming day-trip destination.

Culture vultures – The René Magritte Museum (135 Rue Esseghem) is located in the house where the surrealist painter lived and worked for 24 years. The ground floor represents the apartment that the painter rented with his wife Georgette from 1930 to 1954.

Must eat – An ode to all things kitsch, the Barapaat (25 Place Cardinal Mercier, tel. ) café and restaurant attracts visitors from all over Brussels. The former butchers serves delicious pasta and great beers in a setting covered with religious iconography.

Shop til you drop – Stop by Momentum (594 Chaussée de Jette), a huge furniture shop in a 1910 townhouse specialising in Chinese and French antiques as well as made-tomeasure pieces. Across the street is Comptoir du Miroir (No. 687), a fair-trade jewellery and gift store.

Compiled by Nina Lamparski