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Previous issues for Faro
 
   
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Portugal : Faro - September 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

September in Faro brings with it a whiff of autumn, but the embers of summer are still fanned by warm breezes. And with crowds waning, the Algarve’s capital becomes even more accessible for those wanting to eat out, go shopping or soak up a bit of culture. Paul Bernhardt appreciates time well spent

Getting around

Faro International Airport

Bus: Eva Bus connects the airport with the city centre. Services run every 30 minutes from 7.05am to 9.15pm. The journey takes 20 minutes and a return ticket costs €4 while a single ticket costs €1,55.
Train: A single journey from the airport to Faro for up to four passengers costs around €15 and takes 15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 8-11 Rua da Misericordia (tel. , visitportugal.com).

THE OLD TOWN

Cradled within 16th-century walls, the Cidade Velha is a patchwork of narrow, cobbled streets and leafy squares.

Culture vultures – The Trem Art Gallery (5 Rua do Trem) is renowned for promoting modern, cutting-edge artists. Transparencies by Gerard Burmester runs until 30 September.

Must eat – In the shadow of the 13thcentury cathedral, Mesa dos Mouros (10 Largo da Sé, tel. ) serves up javoli com molho de frutos (wild boar with fruit sauce), among other specialities. The romantic atmosphere at Vila Adentro (17 Praça D Afonso III, tel. ) is enhanced by wonderful azulejos (tiles) and a traditional Portuguese menu.

Must drink – Enjoy a glass of wine at the peaceful Bar Aqui D’El Rei (6-8 Rua do Repousa).

CITY CENTRE

Cosmopolitan Faro capitalises on a vibrant social scene and rich cultural heritage.

Sleep soundly – The Best Western Hotel Dom Bernardo is a great base from which to see the sights.

Culture vultures – The baroque façade of Igreja do Carmo (Largo do Carmo) draws the eye, but it’s the adjacent, ghoulish Capela dos Ossos (the bone chapel) that captures the imagination.

Must eat – For country-style cooking, order cabrito na brasa (charcoal grilled kid suffused with garlic and herbs) at Adega Nortenha (25 Praça Ferreira de Almeida, tel. ). At Taska (38 Rua do Alportel, tel. ) the menu includes tasty linguadinhos fritos com arroz e coentros (fried baby sole with coriander rice).

Dance the night away – Millennium III (23 Rua do Prior) plays a mix of mainstream and Latin music, but it only gets going at midnight. Two dance floors at Dux (38 Rua do Prior) cater for enthusiastic twentysomethings.

Shop til you drop – Head to the sprawling Algarve Forum (EN 125 Loulé- Faro road) which has loads of stores, restaurants and a multiplex cinema.

PRAIA DO FARO

This beachfront neighbourhood is largely characterised by generous swathes of golden sand, a pristine ocean and an ever-present feelgood factor.

Sleep soundly – Estalagem Aeromar has a fantastic location overlooking the mouth of the Ria Formosa lagoon.

Must eat – Savour ameijoas na cataplana (steamed clams with ham and sausage) at Restaurante Aeromar (1 Avenida Nascente, tel. ). The chef at O Costa (7 Avenida Nascente, tel. ) fuses Portuguese, Spanish and Mediterranean ingredients to conjure up meals like carpaccio de bacalhau (wafer thin slices of codfish).

ALMANCIL

A 20-minute drive north-west of the city centre, this lively town is inland Algarve at its most engaging.

Sleep soundly – Shaded by umbrella pines, Quinta da Calma offers dormitory and chalet accommodation. It’s appended to a centre for yoga and holistic healing.

Culture vultures – The nearby Vale do Lobo golf and beach resort (Vale do Lobo) has hosted major golf tournaments on both its Ocean and Royal golf courses, bringing some of the best European golf teams to the region.

Must eat – The friendly O Limoeiro (210 Avenida Duarte Pacheco, tel. ) does creative dishes like robalo com gengibre (sea bass with fresh ginger and herb butter). It’s closed Sundays, though. At Fuzio’s (286 Rua Comércio, tel. ) the menu errs towards the Italian, with options like sautéed spinach with onions and mascarpone in a pesto sauce.



Compiled by Paul Bernhardt

Previous issues for Faro
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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