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Italy : Florence - September 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Florence’s renaissance charms and riverside setting come to life in September. The sun still shines, but the intense heat of summer has gone. This is the best time to explore both the city and the surrounding Tuscan countryside on foot. Kamin Mohammadi takes to the streets

Getting around

Florence Peretola

Bus: Vola In Bus departs from outside the airport to Stazione Santa Maria Novella every 30 minutes. Tickets cost €4,50.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport into the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main tourist information point is at 29r Borgo Santa Croce. There is also one in the piazza outside Santa Maria Novella Stazione and at 1r Via Cavour (www.firenzeturismo.it).

OLTRARNO

Just a short walk from the centre over the river lies a Florence of untouched neighbourhoods, craftsmen and the city’s loveliest public gardens.

Sleep soundly – The luxurious Ferragamo-owned Hotel Lungarno looks right over the river.

Culture vultures – Book ahead to visit the Cappella Brancacci (Santa Maria del Carmine church, Piazza del Carmine) for Masaccio and Masolino’s frescoes

Must eat – Filipepe (39 Via di San Niccolò, ) does creative dishes like pici (short spaghetti) in cep sauce and seasonal soups. Enoteca Fuori Porta (10 Via del Monte alle Croci, ) serves excellent crostini (thin, crisp toast topped with cheese or vegetables) for lunch.

Must drink – Café, bookshop and cultural centre Libreria Café la Cité (20 Borgo San Frediano) has organic wine tasting and live jazz in the evening.

SANTA CROCE

Dominated by its church and flanked by leather merchants, this large piazza teems with places to eat and drink.

Sleep soundly – The long-awaited Four Seasons Hotel is finally open.

Culture vultures – Florence’s richest medieval church, Santa Croce (Piazza Santa Croce), contains the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo and Dante.

Must eat – Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri (87 Via Ghibellina, tel. ) is expensive and formal, but the food is beyond comparison. While the Scottish-owned Baldovino (22 Via San Giuseppe, tel. ) is more relaxed.

Must drink – Beloved by regulars, Rex Café (23 Via Fiesolana) has Gaudiesque mosaics on the wall and serves some good aperitivo.

Dance the night away – Fun and friendly, The Blob Club (21 Via Vinegia) features different music every night.

VIA TORNABUONI

This wide street leads from the Santa Trinità Bridge to Santa Maria Novella and is fantastic for designer shopping.

Sleep soundly – Recover from a busy day in the recently refurbished Albergotto Hotel (13 Via de Tornabuoni, , albergotto.com, rooms from €200).

Culture vultures – If you’re hoping to catch major visiting exhibitions, the Palazzo Strozzi (Piazza Strozzi) is your best bet. It’s currently showing Painting Light: Hidden Techniques of the Impressionists until 28 September.

Must eat – Japanese restaurant Rose’s (26 Via di Parione, tel. ) is great for sushi.

Must drink – Procacci (64 Via de Tornabuoni) is famed for its truffle panini. Noir (12-14 Lungarno Corsini) is a hipster institution with legendary aperitifs and a beautiful clientele.

Shop til you drop – Designers such as Gucci, Cavalli and Prada are lined up along the Via Tornabuoni. For vintage frocks and furniture, visit the fabulous Elio Ferraro Gallery (47 Via di Parione).

SANT’AMBROGIO

Lively locals buzz about the open-air markets in this vibrant neighbourhood east of the centre and away from the main tourist drag.

Culture vultures – The Church of Sant’Ambrogio contains wonderful renaissance frescoes and altarpieces.

Must eat – Renowned chef Fabio Picchi’s Cibrèo Ristorante (8 Via Andrea del Verrocchio, ) is the smart place to go for traditional Tuscan food. Reservations are essential, though.

Must drink – Popular with locals, Caffè Sant’Ambrogio (Piazza Sant’Ambrogio) serves good wine and is a great spot for watching life go by in the piazza.

Dance the night away – With three rooms, Doris (26 Via de Pandolfini) does for both aperitivo and dancing into the small hours.

Shop til you drop – Gioielli Indiscreti (83 Borgo La Croce) sells jewellery made by the owner Giovanna. For bargains, head to the Mercato dei Pulci (flea market) at Piazza dei Ciompi.

Compiled by Kamin Mohammadi