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France : Marseille - September 2008

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The beach season may be over, but all eyes are still on the Mediterranean as Marseille celebrates Septembre en Mer (septembreenmer.com), a seathemed festival that keeps the coast – from the Etang de Berre to La Ciotat – alive with regattas, cultural events, catamaran trips and aquatic sports. Neville Walker explores this coastal city

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT

There’s an added buzz to Marseille’s old harbour this month, with everything from sunset cruises to trips aboard an historic barque ensuring plenty of nautical fun.

Sleep soundly – Catch the sea breezes at the Résidence du Vieux Port, where the spacious rooms have balconies and classic views across the harbour to the basilica of Nôtre Dame de la Garde.

Culture vultures – See how Marseille and other major European and Mediterranean ports are rejuvenating their waterfronts in an exhibition at the Espace Georges Henri Rivière (Fort Saint-Jean, Esplanade Saint-Jean), which runs from 1 September. Then catch a classical concert in the memorable setting of the Abbaye Saint-Victor (3 Rue de l’Abbaye). Music by Beethoven, Salieri, Ravel and others will be staged in the twin tombs on 25 September.

Must eat – Stay true to September’s maritime spirit with a traditional Provençal meal aboard Le Marseillois (Quai du Port, tel. ), a beautifully restored sailing ship turned restaurant. Here’s as good a place as any to try Marseille’s most famous export bouillabaisse – a fish stew made with (among others) garlic, bay leaf, fennel, saffron and orange peel.

Must drink – At a time when everything else in the city has a maritime theme, where else is there to drink but the atmospheric, historic Bar de la Marine (15 Quai de Rive Neuve)?

Shop til you drop – Head to the Vieux Port during the Nuitées Artisanales du Vieux Port (Quai de la Fraternité and Quai du Port). Here you can browse and buy pottery, soaps, fabrics and leather goods until midnight on Thursdays and Fridays during September.

LE PANIER

The steep, winding streets of the city’s oldest quarter mix characteristic Marseille grit with up-and-coming bohemian charm.

Culture vultures – From 16 September, the Centre de la Vieille Charité (2 Rue de la Charité) will be holding a thought-provoking Van Gogh/Monticelli exhibition which explores the influence of the respected but hitherto almost forgotten Marseille painter on the worldfamous Dutch artist. Around 60 works by the two artists will be on display.

Must eat – All pale colours and big orange lampshades, Vinoneo (6 Place Daviel, tel. ) lists each course on the seasonally changing menu with a wine suggestion. This chic little bistro also serves 16 wines by the glass. Or try the earthy, inexpensive Pizzaria Etienne (43 Rue Lorette).

AUBAGNE

Fringed by rocky hills, rich in literary associations and famous for its craft industries, bustling Aubagne makes an easy day trip inland from the city.

Sleep soundly – Tucked between Aubagne and the rugged Massif de la Sainte Baume, Relais de la Magdeleine is a delightful 18th-century hideaway with a grand restaurant and lovely gardens.

Culture vultures – Aubagne is the birthplace of Jean de Florette and Manon des Sources author Marcel Pagnol. Follow in his footsteps on a tour organised by Aubagne’s tourist office (8 Cours Barthélemy). Then pay your respects at the French Foreign Legion’s sombre, engrossing regimental museum (Quartier Vienot), where you can watch modern-day legionnaires marching on the parade ground outside.

Shop til you drop – Hand-painted santons (terracotta figurines) are traditionally associated with the nativity, but they’re on sale all year round. Beat the festive rush with a trip to Santons Marcel Carbonel (6 Promenade du Jeune Anarcharsis). Afterwards, take home a bottle of good cheer from the 500-plus wines at La Part des Anges, (Z.A.C Les Paluds, 551 Avenue du Douard).



Compiled by Neville Walker

Previous issues for Marseille
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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