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Italy : Turin - September 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Having thrown off its slightly staid image, Turin has recast itself as a young, dynamic city, albeit one with an old school appreciation of the fi ner things in life. September’s the perfect time to visit, as the locals return from their beach holidays and slip back into city-living mode. Matt Barker joins them

Getting around

Caselle airport

Bus: A bus service from the airport to the city centre runs every 30 minutes, from 5.15am to 11pm (see www.sadem.it). The journey takes 40 minutes and costs €5.
Train: Trains run directly into Dora station from the airport. The service departs every 30 minutes (see www.gtt.to.it) and takes 40 minutes. Tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre takes about 30 minutes and costs €35. Tourist information: The city’s main tourist office is at the Atrium, Piazza Solferino (tel. , www.turismotorino.org).

MOLE ANTONELLIANA

The baroque splendour of the Piedmont capital comes into its own during the tail-end of summer. A true icon of the city, the Mole was originally built as a synagogue in 1863. Standing 167m in height, it towers over the rooftops of the Centro.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Alpi Resort is a smart, cheerful affair, while Hotel des Artistes (21 Via Principe Amedeo, , desartistes. it, rooms from €108) is a little more swish, though no less affable for that.

Culture vultures – The National Museum of Cinema (20 Via Montebello) is a must-see: a five-floor, multi-media celebration of the silver screen set in the Mole tower itself and crammed full of quirky exhibits. Catch the lift up to the top afterwards for panoramic views of the city.

Must eat – Lab (13/e Piazza Vittorio Veneto) houses a well-stocked cocktail bar and pulls in a chatty clientele. Brasserie Société Lutece (21 Piazza Carlo Emanuele II) harks back to the city’s Gallic roots, with French snacks such as smoked duck paté, warm goats’ cheese salad and chocolate fondant to nibble on while you work your way through the cocktail and wine lists.

Must drink – Lab (13/e Piazza Vittorio Veneto) houses a well-stocked cocktail bar and pulls in a chatty clientele. Brasserie Société Lutece (21 Piazza Carlo Emanuele II) harks back to the city’s Gallic roots, with French snacks such as smoked duck paté, warm goats’ cheese salad and chocolate fondant to nibble on while you work your way through the cocktail and wine lists.

Dance the night away – Suono (1 Via San Massimo) is a late, late spot for live music and DJ sets (things don’t usually get going until gone midnight), whereas Achè (21 Via Montebello) is a hot salsa spot for fleet-of-foot Latin lovers.

SANTA CHIARA AND PIAZZA SAVOIA

Dominated by a large obelisk sitting in its centre, Piazza Savoia is a handsome square just off Via Garibaldi, while the stucco Santa Chiara church dates from 1745.

Must drink – Lobelix (15f Via Corte d’Apello) is a clubby, sleek American bar, big on classic cocktails and daytime refreshments. It’s closed on Sundays, though. Il Bacucco (24 Via Santa Chiara) is a tiny bar full of charm with an excellent wine list.

Shop til you drop – Menietti (22 Via Corte d’Apello) stocks everything for the wine lover – decanters, glasses and various other accessories. L’Ambaradan (3 Via della Misericordia) antiques store is perfect for a leisurely browse.

PIAZZA SAN CARLO

This elegant square is surrounded by typically Torinese cafés and has been the starting point for many an early evening passeggiata (stroll) since the 1600s.

Must eat – Treat yourself at the Caffé Torino (204 Piazza San Carlo, tel. ). It’s a wonderfully posh place and one of the city’s best loved establishments. They do dinner here, as well as light meals like local pastas and moreish pastries. You can also get bar plates heaped with pizza, olives and fried cheese. At the complete opposite end of the spectrum, the Kirkuk Kaffé (16 Via Carlo Alberto, tel. ) serves up dishes with exotic flavours from the southern Balkans and Lebanon to a chi-chi crowd.

Shop til you drop – Steffanone (2 Via Maria Vittoria) is the place to stock up on local food specialities such as cheese and, of course, chocolate. San Carlo dal 1973 (169 Piazza San Carlo) is a designer label-laden shopping temple for discerning fashionistas.

SUPERGA

Lying just to the north-east of the centre, the Superga hill is easily accessible. But once you’re there, it feels like it’s a world away from the hurly-burly of the city.

Culture vultures – Catch a cable car up to the Basilica di Superga (73 Strada della Basilica), which dates from 1713 and is the burial site of the royal family of Savoy. The city spreads out in front of you from the grounds and gardens. Sports fans may want to pay their respects to Il Grande Torino, the famously illfated football club that was nearly wiped out after its plane crashed into the side of the hill in 1949.

Compiled by Matt Barker