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Italy : Venice - September 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

September is a glorious time in Venice. The weather remains warm but the day trippers have gone. After the historic regatta on the 7th, which sees the Grand Canal packed with boats, many of the tourists you’ll see are movie types hanging on after the fi lm festival. Anthea Gerrie enjoys the peace and quiet

Getting around

Marco Polo International Airport.

Taxi: A road taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about €30. A water taxi will cost approximately €90.
Tourist information: The most helpful tourist office is the Venice Pavilion on the St Mark’s waterfront (, www.turismovenezia.it).
Ferry: Alilaguna ferries go from the airport to Piazza San Marco for €12 (or €25 for the fast, direct service on the Alilaguna Oro). Alternatively, buses cost €3 and stop at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. From here, hop on a vaporetto (water bus) to your hotel. One ticket costs €6. The 24-hour pass costs €15.

SAN MARCO

Even Saint Mark’s Square and its surroundings can be full of surprises. Be prepared to get lost and discover charming, deserted little piazzas, unusual shops and fountains and bell towers where you least expect them.

Sleep soundly – Ai Do Mori is a great bargain – pretty rooms a minute from the square and its bell tower.

Culture vultures – The Bridge of Sighs, which connects the Doge’s Palace to the ancient dungeons, is a poignant sight. From here, prisoners caught a glimpse of the Lagoon – and freedom – on their way to the cells.

Must eat – Sitting right on the canal, Da Ivo (1809 Calle dei Fuseri, ) must be the most romantic restaurant in Venice.

Must drink – Enjoy the fabulously OTT décor and the palm-court orchestra at the elegant Florian (Piazza San Marco). It’s a must, despite the eye-watering cost of its cappuccinos. Harry’s Bar (1323 Calle Vallaresso), just steps from the private Cipriani boat pier, is an equally unmissable landmark. Try at least one Bellini, the home-grown cocktail that pairs prosecco with peach juice.

Shop til you drop – Biblos (Via XXII Marzo) stocks wonderful marbled paper, leather-bound notebooks and tiny watercolours of the city.

CASTELLO

Turn left along the canal as you exit Saint Mark’s Square and you’re soon in a different world as real life rears its head. Wander the back streets behind the Arsenale beneath lines of colourful washing blowing above in the breeze.

Must eat – Situated on a lively street lined with several other restaurants, Al Giorgione (1621 Via Garibaldi, ) is owned by a former gondolier and serves fresh fish straight from the lagoon.

GIUDECCA

From this island district you can admire the skyline of San Marco across the Basin. The area, with its upand- coming warehouse conversions, is becoming ever more fashionable.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Cipriani is one of the world’s most glamorous hotels, with a great pool and a private launch which whisks guests to San Marco in four minutes flat.

Must eat – It should still be possible to eat outside by the water on a warm September night at Harry’s Dolce (Fondamenta Sant Eufemia, ). Choose the polenta with squid served in its own ink.

DORSODURO

Perched between San Marco and Giudecca, this is a favourite of Venice aficionados – less tourists despite the central location and lots of glimpses of residential life.

Sleep soundly – Housed in a 16thcentury palazzo, Pensione Seguso offers traditional rooms right on the water for half the price of those found fronting the Grand Canal.

Culture vultures – Set in the Palazzo Venier dei Leone, with a sculpture garden and a waterfront terrace, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (704 Dorsoduro) is a breath of fresh air, both for its bold 20th-century work in a city dominated by old masters and for its lovely Grand Canal setting.



Compiled by Anthea Gerrie

Previous issues for Venice
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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