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Spain : Bilbao - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Spain

October sees sunny days and crisp evenings in the Basque country’s most dynamic city. By day, you can linger over a hot chocolate before exploring the museums and enticing shops, while evenings are best spent trying the delicious tapas in Bilbao’s bars. Thomas Brisbane tucks in

Getting around

Bilbao Airport, designed by Santiago Calatrava, is worth visiting for its architecture alone, and is situated 10km from the city centre.

Bus: The yellow BizkaiBus runs every 30 minutes from arrivals between 5.25am and 9.55pm. The trip into town takes 20 minutes and costs €1,10.
Taxi: Expect to pay about €18 for the journey to the city centre, which takes 15 minutes.
Tourist information: Tourist information: The main office is at 11 Plaza Ensanche (tel. , bilbao.net).

CASCO VIEJO

Lose yourself in the tangle of medieval streets that wind their way around the Plaza Mayor, and discover great tapas, bars and shops

Sleep soundly – Sleek and modern, the Petite Palace Arana offers excellent value for money right in the epicentre of Bilbao. Rent a bicycle at reception to discover the city on two wheels.

Culture vultures – Learn more about the region’s history at the Basque Museum (Plaza Unamuno).

Must eat – Full of old world charm, Amaya Restaurant (4 Calle Ribera, tel. ) has a cosy bar that serves gourmet tapas downstairs and a formal restaurant on the upper level.

Must drink – Perfect for a quick bite while out shopping, Gure Bar (28 Calle Ercilla) does delicious tapas, plus beers and local wines served by the glass.

Dance the night away – Sala Fever (Poligono Santa Ana, Calle Tellería) offers four pulsating floors of house, rock and electronica.

Shop til you drop – Find handmade leather belts, shoes and sandals at Bizkarguenaga (15 Calle Somera)

THE RIVER

Perfect for afternoon strolls or cycling, the tree-lined Nervion enjoys great views of Bilbao’s spectacular buildings, including the Guggenheim Museum.

Sleep soundly – A short walk from the museums, the avant-garde Hesperia Hotel has some spectacular views of the Calatrava-designed bridge.

Culture vultures – The iconic Guggenheim Museum (2 Avenida Abandoibarra) has a fascinating permanent collection, and two special exhibitions running throughout October: ‘Installations: Selections from the Guggenheim Collections’ and ‘Cy Twombly’, the first retrospective of the artist’s work to be held in 20 years.

Must eat – Enjoy regional ‘slow food’ at Abaroa (13 Paseo Campo Volantin, tel. ). Specialities include cod, stuffed red peppers and chicken cooked Basque style.

Must drink – Set in a park near the Congress building, and looking out over the river, the Ibaiberri Bar (Paseo Abandoibarra s/n) is the perfect place to chill out and watch the world go by.

PLAZA ENSANCHE

With a distinctive village atmosphere, this quiet area off the bustling Gran Vía has plenty of bars and shopping.

Sleep soundly – The beautiful Lopez de Haro Hotel offers comfortable rooms with classic décor and modern amenities.

Must drink – Check out the theatre costumes that adorn the walls at Amor de Madre (1 Calle Obispo Orueta).

Shop til you drop – Osorio (7 Plaza del Ensanche) is good for unusual gifts. Pick up a perfect Italian-made umbrella or a hand-painted Spanish fan here.

ABANDO

The busy area around the Abando Station is teeming with life and is just over the river from the historic centre.

Sleep soundly – A good option for the budget traveller, Hotel Ripa (3 Calle Ripa, tel. , hotel-ripa.com, doubles from €60) has pleasant rooms close to the Metro, and the shops.

Culture vultures – Between shopping and eating, take a minute to pop up into the Abando Station to see the massive stained-glass window showing scenes of traditional Basque life.

Must eat – Feast on seafood and fish alongside a well-dressed local crowd at Serantes (16 Calle Licenciado Poza, tel. ). Try the lobster salad followed by hake with clams. The restaurant also has a good wine list.

Must drink – Oozing old-world Moorish charm, the bar/nightclub Irugia (13 Calle Colon de Larreategui) has a long list of beers and cocktails to choose from.

Dance the night away – Rockstar (Plaza Sagrada Corazón) pulls in a cooler-thanthou crowd and is always packed.

Compiled by Thomas Brisbane