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Italy : Catania - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

October brings the first snowfall to Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. It forms a dramatic backdrop to Catania, perched at its foot. Downtown shops display irresistible autumn/winter collections, while luscious seasonal fruits are now in store, with mouth-watering grapes, persimmons and prickly pears taking pride of place. Ellen Grady whets our appetite

Getting around

Fontanarossa Airport

Bus: The Alibus shuttle service runs between the airport and the central train station. It’s a 15-minute journey, with buses running from 5am to midnight. Other services are available to all major Sicilian destinations, including Taormina and Palermo. The bus journey into Catania costs €2.
Taxi: Taxis are also available and the journey into Catania shouldn’t cost more than €30. All major car-hire companies are represented at the airport.
Tourist information: The main tourist information office is at 10 Via Cimarosa (, www.turismo.catania.it)

THE CENTRE

Streets, piazzas and churches of black lava-stone form the old centre of Catania, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its baroque cathedral dedicated to St Agatha, and the picturesque fish market close by. Check out the shop windows along Via Etnea, for clothes, shoes and jewellery.

Sleep soundly – Try the understated luxury of the Una Hotel Palace. It’s right on the main street and has a fabulous restaurant.

Culture vultures – The Museo Diocesano (Piazza Duomo) is Catania’s finest museum. It houses a superb collection of paintings, statues and silverware from the city’s churches. The museum is dedicated to the deeply-felt cult of St Agatha, patron saint of bellfounders, jewellers and wet nurses.

Shop til you drop – Gioielleria Fecarotta (172 Via Etnea) specialises in jewels made with locally found amber.

MOUNT ETNA

Snow-capped Etna is breathing fire, winter-sports enthusiasts are oiling their skis, while the forests and lava formations are at their best for crisp autumn rambles.

Culture vultures – The Ottobrata festival (zafferana-etnea.it), a celebration of local wine, wild fungi, honey, chestnuts and apples, is in full swing at lovely Zafferana, on the slopes of the volcano. Come Sundays and join bee keepers, stonemasons, carpenters and vintners in a ‘show-and-tell’ involving the whole village.

Must eat – Take a leisurely lunch break at the renowned Parco dei Principi (1 Via delle Ginestre, ), a charming old villa just outside the village. Don’t miss the spaghetti with lemon, followed by Enza’s soft almond ice cream with hot chocolate sauce.

TAORMINA

This hilltop town, with its medieval streets, Roman ruins, open-air cafés, enticing shops and breathtaking views, never fails to impress.

Must drink – The Shaker Bar (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele) was a favourite with Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. Great for peoplewatching with a latte macchiato (milk with a dash of coffee).

Shop til you drop – Feast your eyes on the incredible window displays along Corso Umberto, the main street, and pick up eye-popping underwear, shoes and handbags. Julia Roberts and Jodie Foster are regular patrons.

LICATA

Bus or train your way down to this quiet harbour on the south coast of Sicily, for smashing sunsets, secluded beaches and excellent food. But don’t tell anyone, it’s a Sicilian secret!

Sleep soundly – Set in an old house in the fishermen’s quarter, Dimora San Girolamo has lovely rooms overlooking the harbour and does scrumptious Sicilian breakfasts.

Culture vultures – There’s a medieval castle, Castel Sant’Angelo, on the top of the hill, and a superb museum at nearby Gela, Museo Archeologico Regionale (2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele).

Must eat – Chef Pino, one of Italy’s most promising young cooks, serves up innovative seafood dishes at La Madia (22 Corso Capriata, ), where even the bread is home made.

Compiled by Ellen Grady