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Italy : Florence - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Florence is where centuries of art and history comfortably coexist with modern museums and teeming bars. And January’s bright sunny days and cosy winter evenings, when rates are lower and queues are short (or at least shorter) really show the city in its best light. Kathryn Tomasetti gets in line

Getting around

Florence Peretola

Bus: Vola In Bus departs from outside the airport to Stazione Santa Maria Novella every 30 minutes. Tickets cost €4,50.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport into the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main tourist information point is at 29r Borgo Santa Croce. There is also one in the piazza outside Santa Maria Novella Stazione and at 1r Via Cavour (www.firenzeturismo.it).

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA

Surrounded by the Uffizi, Palazzo Vecchio and Ponte Vecchio, the area around Piazza della Signoria is the bustling heart of Florence.

Sleep soundly – Make a beeline for the Uffizi (Sala delle Reali Poste), where Il ‘Pane degli Angeli’ (The Bread of Angels) showcases work normally in storage, including paintings by Pisano, Botticelli and Parmigianino. The newly opened Centro di Cultura Contemporanea Strozzina (Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza degli Strozzi) features contemporary creations in various media.

Culture vultures – Just steps from Ponte Vecchio, the chic Fusion Bar (3 Vicolo dell’Oro) is the place to stop for a pre-dinner aperitivo.

Shop til you drop – With the January sales in full swing, head to Via de’ Tornabuoni and pick up top designer names like Armani, Prada and Versace, all at bargain prices.

SAN MARCO & SANT’AMBROGIO

University students mingle with Florentine locals in the cafés, restaurants and markets north of the city centre.

Sleep soundly – Formerly the home of sculptor Giovanni Duprè, Hotel Monna Lisa oozes eccentric Renaissance charm.

Culture vultures – The interplay between the Arctic environment and magical mysticism is the theme of the Museum of Natural History’s (4 Via La Pira) current exhibition, ‘Orsi e Sciamani’ (Bears and Shamans).

Dance the night away – Head to Piazza della Liberta’s ice-skating rink, where you can skate until the small hours – it’s open until 1am on weekends.

Shop til you drop – Buy parmesan, sun-dried tomatoes and spicy salami at the late 19th-century Mercato Centrale (Piazza del Mercato Centrale), the city’s largest food market.

SANTA CROCE

The expansive Piazza Santa Croce and its towering gothic cathedral contrast sharply with the winding alleys in this vibrant neighbourhood.

Sleep soundly – Once the childhood home of Dante’s wife, simple rooms and a central location make the Hotel Orchidea excellent value.

Must eat – For delicious veggie food, head to the entirely organic La Latteria (39r Via degli Alfani, ). Slow Food favourite Il Cibreo (122r Via dei Macci) doesn’t take reservations, so arrive early in order to tuck into tasty Tuscan treats.

Must drink – If you can squeeze in, the tiny but teeming Baldoria (18r Via di San Giuseppe) offers an outstanding choice of fine wines by the glass and free antipasti.

Dance the night away – Sip cocktails while listening to live music at Jazz Club (3 Via Nuova de’ Cacci).

Shop til you drop – Stock up on decadent delights at Florence’s annual Fiera del Cioccolato Artigianale (Artisans Chocolate Fair), 24-27 Jan in Piazza Santa Croce.

OLTRARNO

Sprawling along the south side of the River Arno, the Oltrarno is the city’s most authentic neighbourhood.

Sleep soundly – Commanding magnificent views, Torre di Bellosguardo has 16 rooms, an indoor pool and a rambling garden.

Culture vultures – Visit the Museo della Fondazione Roberto Capucci (Villa Bardini, 2 Costa San Giorgio), the city’s new museum dedicated to fashion and native guru, Roberto Capucci.

Must eat – Friendly family-run Sabotino (2r Via Pisana, tel. ) dishes out homemade pasta and wine by the carafe, at very reasonable prices. Or splurge at modern Tuscan Beccofino (Piazza degli Scarlatti, tel. ) where the wines are as exquisite as the menu.

Compiled by Paul Bernhardt