Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

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Germany : Hamburg - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Germany

Even though Hamburg’s weather takes a turn for the worse in October, the autumnal chill and frequent showers can’t dampen the city’s spirits. Late-night revellers throng the pavements, while dedicated shoppers trawl its atelier-studded byways. Farhad Heydari braves the elements to join them

Getting around

Hamburg Airport is 9km north-west of the city.

Bus: Coaches to the centre depart every 15 minutes from 6am to 7pm, then at 20-minute intervals until 11pm. Single tickets cost €5
Train: The airport doesn’t have a direct rail connection to the city centre. The nearest station is at Ohlsdorf, served by the S1 and S11 trains and U1 underground line. A single ticket is €2,60 and the journey takes 20 minutes.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main office is at Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken, between bridges 4 and 5 (tel. , hamburgtourism. de).

ST GEORG

At one time home to the demimonde, St Georg has gone all bohemian, becoming the city’s edgiest gay hangout.

Sleep soundly – The George, is a petite newcomer, reminiscent of an English social club, with a light-flooded rooftop spa. Otherwise Crowne Plaza Hotel is ideally located just steps from the Aussenalster.

Culture vultures – Last year, Hamburg’s International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival attracted a record audience of nearly 15,000 people. This year’s event, from 21-26 October, promises to be equally successful, with a programme of international movies and retrospectives.

Must drink – Oversized lamps, mixand- match décor and a truncated deli menu make Café Gnosa (93 Lange Reihe) a crowd-pleaser. When the weather’s good, people make for the terrace at Kyti Voo (82 Lange Reihe).

SPEICHERSTADT

This neo-gothic quarter is situated along the western edges of the Elbe on a series of islands separated by canals and cobbled alleys, abutting the HafenCity development.

Culture vultures – Chronicling the breakneck expansion of HafenCity is an interactive visitor’s centre (30 Am Sandtorkai), complete with audio-visual displays and mock-ups.

Must eat – The austere, whitewashed décor at Brook (91 Bei den Mühren, ) is enlivened by its stellar cuisine and floodlit views. Nearby, Chilli Club (54 Am Sandtorkai, ), a modernist refuge on the Magellen Terrace, serves everything from satay to sushi.

|ST. PAULI

Bisected by the neon-showered Reeperbahn, St. Pauli is where the Beatles cut their teeth, and the district remains steeped in musical legend

SCHANZENVIERTEL

Once home to the city’s Portuguese population, this cobbled quarter is studded with chic shops and cafés.

Must eat – True to the quarter’s Portuguese heritage, Petisco (78 Schulterblatt, ) does tasty seasonal specials, while nearby La Sepia (36 Schulterblatt, tel. ) serves good seafood and Portuguese speciality cataplana.

Must drink – Dual Bar (53 Schanzenstrasse) is popular with clued-up locals, who come for the laid-back atmosphere and excellent cocktails. Or head to Knust (30 Neuer Kamp), housed in Hamburg’s former slaughterhouse.

Shop til you drop – Paul & Piske (31 Schanzenstrasse) is a one-stop independent shop for all things fashionrelated, including specially designed knitwear. The same is true of Lunatic (3 Schanzenstrasse), a retro storehouse good for vintage stuff.

Compiled by Farhad Heydari