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Italy : Milan - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The rest of the country may turn its nose up at Milan, but the fact that it isn’t one of Italy’s most breathtaking cities is perhaps its greatest strength. For while other centri storici, blessed with Renaissance architecture, may seem a little lonely once the weather turns, Milan remains resolutely a-buzz all year round. Johnny Goodhart reports

Getting around

The nearest airport is Malpensa, 48km from the city centre.

Bus: A shuttle-bus runs from the airport to Centrale station. The 50-minute journey costs €4,50, with buses leaving every 20 minutes between 4.30am and 12.15am.
Train: The Malpensa Express runs from the airport to central Milan, taking around 40 minutes and costing €11.
Taxi: A taxi into central Milan takes about an hour and costs €75.
Tourist information: The main office is at 19a Piazza Duomo ( , milanoinfo.eu).

PORTA VENEZIA

Characterised by wide shopping streets and the odd bit of greenery, Venezia is welcoming and relaxed after the trendier-than-thou surrounds of nearby Montenapoleone.

Culture vultures – Smack bang in the middle of Corso Venezia, the two recently restored gateway buildings that make up the wonderfully grand Casa del Pane (63 Corso Venezia) are worth a visit even if you don’t fancy one of the regular art exhibitions staged there. Otherwise, the Civica Galleria d’Arte Moderna (16 via Palestro) houses works by Italian futurists and Modigliani.

Must eat – Ai Giardini (2 via Lodovico Settala) is a much-loved, long-standing restaurant with old-school service and Sardinian-influenced cuisine. Cucina Economica (8 via Francesco Guicciardini), literally ‘economic cuisine’, recently changed ownership, but remains a highly recommended, relaxed drop-in. Its menu changes daily, and features dishes like penne with celery and ricotta, and Salentine-style octopus.

FIERA

Named after the massive exhibition and trade fair development, this increasingly lively district is also home to the San Siro stadium as well as a growing number of style-conscious bars and hotels.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Enterprise is a swanky design hotel – very Milan – with a chic but comfy feel. Unusually for a design hotel, it also has a modern conference centre, so it’s good for business travellers too. The Atahotel Fieramilano (20 viale S. Boezio, , atahotels.it, rooms from €165) is an elegant hotel in a quietly secluded spot, situated near the Sempione park.

Culture vultures – The San Siro (5 via Piccolomini), or Stadio Meazza to use its official name, is one of the world’s great iconic stadiums. The two Milanese clubs are currently enjoying contrasting fortunes – October sees Italian champions Inter entertain Bologna and Genoa, while Ronaldinho and AC Milan are at home to Sampdoria and Siena.

Must drink – Must (3 via Belisario) is a busy aperitivo bar that stays open right into the small hours. It also serves an excellent brunch. The Old Fashion Café (6 viale Emilio Alemagna) is a historical Milanese bar that’s been given a recent facelift, and is perennially popular with the university crowd.

PORTA TICINESE

Winding its way down towards the canals, this quarter just to the south of the centro has long been giving Brera a run for its money.

Must eat – Despite the name, Trattoria Toscana (58 Corso di Porta Ticinese, 2) has only the merest Tuscan accent, most pronounced in the meaty menu options, and quickly fills up at peak times. Il Bolognese (3 Corso Genova, 4) offers classic Italian comfort food – think heaped plates of pasta and plenty of tempting desserts.

Shop til you drop – The Diesel Concept Store (44 Corso Porta Ticinese) is a flagship for the ubiquitous brand, while Biffi (6 Corso Genova) is a few more notches upmarket, and sells high-end accessories.

BRERA

It’s almost becoming a cliché now, especially at night, but a stroll around the cobbled streets at the back of the Duomo is still a Milan must.

Culture vultures – The Pinacoteca di Brera (28 via Brera) is one of the city’s cultural jewels, home to a collection which includes works by Caravaggio, Bellini, Tintoretto and Rembrandt.

Must drink – Grabbing a table at the Radetzky Café (5 via Largo La Foppa) is quite a feat – this ever-popular bar with its excellent aperitivo always spills out into the surrounding streets. El Tumbun de San Marc (20 via San Marco) is more of a traditional pub, but it still has a healthy dose of Milanese brio about it.

Compiled by Johnny Goodhart