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Germany : Munich - October 2008

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While the rest of Germany slips into a post-summer lull, Munich launches into its biggest party of the year, the Oktoberfest. But as Ben Knight discovers, there’s plenty more to the Bavarian capital in autumn – its beautiful parks burst into golden tones, and the theatre and opera season fi nally takes off

Getting around

Hamburg Airport

Bus: Buses leave for the city centre every 20 minutes, from 6am to 10pm. A single ticket costs €10, and a return costs €16.
Train: The journey from the airport to Hauptbahnhof (Munich’s central station) takes 40 minutes. The S1 and S8 trains run every 10 minutes and a single ticket costs €8,80.
Taxi: The average taxi fare to the city centre is €55 (€65 during rush hour).
Tourist information: There are two offices, at the main station (2 Bahnhofsplatz) and in the town hall (Neues Rathaus) in Marienplatz (tel. , www.muenchen.de).

ALTSTADT/LEHEL

There are few town centres in Europe that have the holiday atmosphere of Marienplatz – this kaleidoscope of well-travelled tourists, swanky locals and roasted-almond stalls is as exciting as it is fascinating.

Sleep soundly – For convenience, ease and economy, it’s hard to beat the Hotel am Markt, on the Viktualienmarkt, a stone’s throw from the Marienplatz. If you prefer to immerse yourself in decadent pleasures, go for the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (1 Neuturmstrasse, tel. , mandarinoriental.com, rooms from €345).

Culture vultures – The new season at the Bavarian State Opera (2 Max- Joseph-Platz), opens on 2 October with Verdi’s Macbeth. One of the most renowned opera houses in the world, it will be staging both Macbeth and other classics throughout the month.

Must eat – Situated on a roof overlooking the Marienplatz, Café Glockenspiel (5th floor, 28 Marienplatz, 4256) is the ideal spot for viewing the famous glockenspiel in the town hall. The upmarket pizza restaurant Nero (34 Rumfordstrasse, tel. ) is rather more secluded.

Shop til you drop – Pick up some wonderful retro fashions at Alexa’s (10 Utzschneiderstrasse).

MAXVORSTADT/ SCHWABING

Where the city’s cultural elite used to gather for coffee and cake, Schwabing has lost none of its glamour today.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Englischer Garten is a lovely hotel right on the Englischer Garten.

Must eat – Great Mexican-Spanish cuisine at Don Luca (44 Leopoldstrasse, ). Hirschau (15 Gysslingstrasse, tel. ) serves traditional German food against the backdrop of the Englischer Garten.

Must drink – The Greenroom-Bar (13 Leopoldstrasse) has a great cocktails list. Try a grasshopper: crème de menthe, crème de cacoa and cream.

GLOCKENBACHVIERTEL

Munich’s party corner is really flourishing at the moment. Don’t miss a night out here.

Must eat – Innovative Japanese restaurant Sushi & Soul (71 Klenzestrasse, tel. ) is so stylish it’s even got its own compilation CD. Plus, you can enrol on a sushi-making course here. If, however, you’re after classic, solid Bavarian cuisine, there’s nowhere better than Gaststätte Rümpler (21 Baumstrasse, tel. )

Must drink – Valentin Stüberl (28 Dreimühlenstrasse) is a super chic bar where Munich’s 20-somethings come out to play. It’s got a roster of diverse DJs who perform almost nightly.

Dance the night away – Housed in a converted petrol station, Cafe King (3 Müllerstrasse) is the place to be seen.

Shop til you drop – Legendary independent record shop Echt Optimal (6 Kolosseumstrasse) is well worth more than one visit.

HAIDHAUSEN

Newly popular with Munich’s most fashion-conscious, Haidhausen has a crop of good restaurants as well as some great shopping.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Preysing is one of the best places to stay in town. Meanwhile at Hotel Aurbacher (5 Aurbacher Strasse, 0910, hotel-aurbacher.de, rooms from €90) elegant surroundings and four-star service come in at reasonable prices.

Culture vultures – The culture centre Gasteig (5 Rosenheimer Strasse) is always worth a look. Apart from classical concerts, there’s a host of temporary exhibitions – two interesting shows on psychiatry and doctors in Nazi Germany run throughout October.

Dance the night away – at nightclub Milch und Bar (12 Sonnenstrasse) – it’s almost always packed out.

Compiled by Ben Knight