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Italy : Naples - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The idea that Naples might prove a calmer proposition out of the peak summer season is a little fanciful. This remains Italy’s most animated, vibrant city even if the weather isn’t at its warmest. Matt Barker enjoys some late autumn sun, and finds time to cram in a bit of culture in between mouthfuls of pizza

Getting around

Naples International Airport at Capodichino.

Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13. An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)

MERGELLINA

Culture vultures – For a more contemporary take on Neapolitan culture, the Palazzo delle Arti Napoli (60 via dei Mille) is home to a cross section of cutting-edge artists, while the Studio Trisorio (215 riviera di Chiaia) is a small, independent gallery that showcases up-and-coming names.

Must eat – Il Gallo Nero (466 via Torquato Tasso, tel. ) is swish, but still resolutely traditional, with a menu based on local recipes that date from the 19th century. Try some of their deck-fresh seafood or pastas, like Neapolitan linguine with pesto, or macaroni with artichokes and peas. It’s closed on Mondays, though. La Sacrestia (116 via Orazio, tel. ), up the hill, is set in a villa overlooking the sprawling centro. It’s not cheap, but it’s a real treat.

Shop til you drop – The Torretta market (via Giordano Bruno La Torretta) is a charming, colourful food market that also houses a number of cloth and craft stalls. La Montanina (30 via Carlo Poerio) is one of the city’s best cheese shops and the place to stock up on provolone del nonno, a spicy local speciality.

SPACCANAPOLI

October can still bring the odd spot of hazy sunshine, so expect to see plenty of life lived out on the cobbled streets of the centro. The historic centre is the essence of the city, a crisscrossing maze of side streets in the shadow of religious monuments, where you’re never more than six feet away from a slice of pizza.

Sleep soundly – Spending the night in the middle of the city needn’t mean investing in industrial strength earplugs. Both the Hotel Palazzo Decumani and the Duomo are relaxing boltholes – the former is a chic, designer affair, while the latter is a touch more homely.

Culture vultures – The San Domenico Maggiore (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) is a true icon of the city, a brooding Gothic church, moody and magnificent. The Cappella Sansevero (17-21 via Francesco de Sanctis) is a small, stunning baroque chapel. The Museo Archeologico Nazionale (19 Piazza Museo) is a useful standby if you haven’t got time to head out to Pompeii – it houses a huge replica of the doomed city.

Must eat – Antica Pizzeria Port’ Alba (18 via Port Alba, ) is a great spot for pizza and, unusually for this city with its strict dough-disc etiquette, you can even have one at lunchtime without raising eyebrows. Di Matteo (94 via dei Tribunali, ) is one of the city’s most popular restaurants, offering excellent Neapolitan street food like asta cresciuta (dough balls) and crochette di patate (potato croquettes).

SANT’ ELMO AND VILLA FLORIDANA

Best reached by the funicular rail service, the castle and surrounding area are perched high above the city.

Culture vultures – The Castello Sant’ Elmo (1 Largo San Martino) dates from the 12th century and has a long and intriguingly gruesome history. It’s closed on Sundays. The Villa Floridana and surrounding gardens are altogether more genteel and perfect for escaping the claustrophobic centro.

Must eat – Acunzo (60-62 via Cimarosa) is a relaxed, family-run place, just next door to the funicular. It does robust regional food and is famous for its pizzas. Even in the middle of a torrential downpour, a stop at the Gelateria Otranto (78 via Scarlatti) is an absolute must. They do fantastic home-made ice creams and sorbets, but if the weather gets really cold, go for one of their ice cream-filled pastries.

Compiled by Matt Barker